Ugly Hardware Only

ryan lairdwrote:

JW, I thought all ASCA-updated anchors are installed by volunteers, even when the two employees volunteer to do the installation. Can you provide a link on the ASCA website to where reusing old hardware and avoiding galvanic corrosion is discussed? I searched and did not find anything. I think it would be helpful to provide this guidance as I am seeing funky installations including repeatedly switching between plated and stainless and new stainless hangers slapped on old plated wedge bolts.

Anna, it appears that the Friday the 13th anchors were updated in 2018 as the route comments state, ".... sports lowering hooks on the rings" and "These are the new, bomber lower-off, wire-gate, steel hooks courtesy of the ASCA."  Additionally, the anchors I referenced around Vedauwoo were ASCA-updated anchors installed by the LCO.

Yes, ASCA hardware is all placed by volunteers, even when Nate or I personally maintain bolts & anchors, it's our volunteer time.

Galvanic corrosion is really not an issue 99% of the time, it's generally way overblown as a concern. Having replaced 2000+ bolts, I have only ever suspected a tiny bit of galvanic corrosion maybe 5 times ever (all were the vague start of white build-up on a stainless hanger with the build up next to a plated bolt). It would be nearly impossible to get galvanic corrosion in components of a free hanging anchor regardless of what metals you have. 

The ASCA provides hooks and links - (sometimes plated, sometimes stainless links depending on location), and most of the time folks are adding them to existing anchors, which can be a total random assortment of gear. Small links are needed to fit into many chains (the "nose" of bigger links doesn't fit through the chain link), large links are needed to fit over some old anchors (closed cold shuts, Metolius rap hangers, fat chains/links).

Yes, the SMC aluminum rap ring looks super skinny, and it's very weak compared to a hook, but it's still wicked strong and it's pretty hard to put much of any real force on a top anchor. 

Greg Barneswrote:

Yes, ASCA hardware is all placed by volunteers, even when Nate or I personally maintain bolts & anchors, it's our volunteer time.

Galvanic corrosion is really not an issue 99% of the time, it's generally way overblown as a concern. Having replaced 2000+ bolts, I have only ever suspected a tiny bit of galvanic corrosion maybe 5 times ever (all were the vague start of white build-up on a stainless hanger with the build up next to a plated bolt). It would be nearly impossible to get galvanic corrosion in components of a free hanging anchor regardless of what metals you have. 

The ASCA provides hooks and links - (sometimes plated, sometimes stainless links depending on location), and most of the time folks are adding them to existing anchors, which can be a total random assortment of gear. Small links are needed to fit into many chains (the "nose" of bigger links doesn't fit through the chain link), large links are needed to fit over some old anchors (closed cold shuts, Metolius rap hangers, fat chains/links).

Yes, the SMC aluminum rap ring looks super skinny, and it's very weak compared to a hook, but it's still wicked strong and it's pretty hard to put much of any real force on a top anchor. 

This 14 kN minus hollow aluminum rap ring was on a multipitch anchor with multiple large roofs, where a direct fall on the anchor is definitely possible. It would definitely not be OK by European standards.  Michael S, thanks for your time and money improving that anchor.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrKzvWMyCmE

"This 14 kN minus hollow aluminum rap ring was on a multipitch anchor with multiple large roofs, where a direct fall on the anchor is definitely possible."

OK then that is way sketchy, factor 2 onto a single small SMC rap ring is no bueno.

This 14 kN minus hollow aluminum rap ring was on a multipitch anchor with multiple large roofs, where a direct fall on the anchor is definitely possible. It would definitely not be OK by European standards.  Michael S, thanks for your time and money improving that anchor.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrKzvWMyCmE

Of course! I hope we all want to look out for each other out there.

I keep hardware around for that reason. Even when not on development missions.

And yes 14kn new. Ryan at How-Not2  broke worn rings around 1.2kn!!Thats scary 

15 -20 year old galv steel hangers, a classic at this crag here in nz. Bomber

Anna’s reminded me of this one

Oh yeah, that’s ugly Camdon. Here’s one to match! 

Ok ok i will throw up a few from 4 days ago.

Jake Rwrote:

These two hangers were produced by HME. Heat-treated chromoly steel, circa mid 1980s. The oval shaped hole will accommodate two carabiners. 

Jake Rwrote:

Ok ok i will throw up a few from 4 days ago.

That’s a Travis Klawin classic if I ever did see one.

What route did it come off? 

Jake R,
You win the ugliest prize! Was that anchor still being actively used?

When it breaks you just move it over right?

KrisGwrote:

When it breaks you just move it over right?

Yep! Here's an example from 1952 (Overhang Bypass, Yosemite Valley):

- Salamanizer Ski

Good eye. Kalwin didn’t place these but they are from the same place where he got his hangars. These are from a smaller crag in the Mt Shasta area, but spread throughout Siskiyou, Shasta and Lassen county as I am sure you have encountered many.

- Anne Brown

These were still very much being actively used before I replaced them 4 days ago. Here is the kicker that one bolt had a 22lb 1/2” chain welded to it with an even larger bottom link. First time my pack was significantly heavier after bolting. Think about that logic.

Two recent piton finds that were both probably hammered in the middle the 70s. Not ugly at all but time for updated hardware to protect the climbing.

Anna those pins are things of beauty and should somehow be preserved. i hate the thought of them just being yanked out.. and placed in someones old pin collection. 

Jabroni McChufferson wrote:

Those pins look bomber 

I was going to say in Eldo these would be bomber fixed pro that hundreds of people clip every year, but nobody falls on.

Cory Nwrote:

I was going to say in Eldo these would be bomber fixed pro that hundreds of people clip every year, but nobody falls on.

That’s one of my valuable points of insight I always give to newer climbers.

That is “All fixed gear is bomber, so long as you don’t fall on it”. Probably best to not hang on it either.