El Dorado NW Ice Couloir

A homie and I are looking to potentially tag the Northwest Ice couloir on El Dorado this month. I’m seeing a potential high pressure system that could role in early next week. I’ve been monitoring the weather for a little over a month in that zone and there’s no question there has been a lot going on. Multiple melt freeze cycles and LOTS of snow. I’ve seen the inspiration from a far and have heard horror stories about the boulder field, although our fellow stoker climber Kyle says it’s overhyped. Not too worried about the difficulty of climbing up the couloir, I also read you can see into the climb after the first rap with a 2x60’s, we are planning to bring 2x70’s. So if it’s out we can just ascend. My main concern is the volume of snow that has been falling up there and the hazards that come along with it. Boulder field in snow and thin snow bridges are my biggest concern. Wondering what people think and if you all have seen stuff I haven’t seen. Please give me the beta spary down:) Thank you! Also, we are planning to make it a 2 day climb.

Following 

I made the second ascent of the NW Ice Couloir in thin, excellent conditions in November 2002. https://www.summitpost.org/view_object.php?object_id=168804&confirm_post=7

The boulder field, when snowed up, is character building, but not any worse than the talus field below Colchuck Peak. I did manage to trip and execute a perfect somersault, landing on my back during the hike down in the dark.

We camped at the toe of the east ridge which makes sense as the descent drops you back at your camp. Folks weren't doing the rappel on the approach back then so we did a bit of a long walk around following bear tracks in the glacier. The glacier was open and we crossed only a few small crevasses.

Double 70's seem like overkill, unless you have to retreat back down the route. We used a single 60 and climbed the route to the base of the summit pyramid in 6 rope stretching pitches.

Hi Lain!

I climbed it that year that everyone and their mother did. Boot top powder on top of a bullet hard base on the approach equated to deep trenching up the second half of the route.

It had all been cruiser néve a few days prior.

Deep snow shuts down most parties on this climb. If the snow surface isn’t solidified, I wouldn’t expect the climbing to be very enjoyable. It’s beautiful up there and it’s good to go learn what all that forecast peeping you’ve been doing has actually resulted in.

Take everything I’m saying with a grain of salt. I’m a massive pessimist when it comes to conditions and it’s come back to bite me several times. 

Did you go for it?! 

I've been one of the parties that was shut down on the approach by deep snow (TR). We brought snow shoes when we should have brought skis (would have been way more fun!). Been up there a few times, the boulder field is quite manageable and shouldn't be a concern. If its clear or covered in snow, you are in the goldilocks zone. The in between sucks (especially on the down), when you can't tell if you have a solid foot or not and takes some more care.