New Zealand North Island

My girlfriend just left for New Zealand to work as a raft guide for the NZ summer, and I'm planning to go visit for a month or two, either in November/December or January/February. She'll be living in Turangi on the North Island and I was curious what kind of climbing there is nearby. It looks like there's some stuff around Lake Taupo, is it any good? Other good stuff nearby? If I did my conversion right, we're looking for stuff in the 13-18 range for her and the 19-24 range for me, but I'm happy to climb easier if there's not a good spot with both. Interested in either trad or sport, but if the trad isn't stellar, I'll probably leave the rack at home. We'll be mostly based in Turangi but she'll have a car so we can roam around the North Island a fair amount. Also not solely a climbing trip, so open to non-climbing suggestions if folks have those as well!

Kinloch (Kawakawa Bay or K2), Mangorewa Gorge just opened back up. Not too much trad here except at K Bay. The Crag has most of the climbing crags in NZ
Should do the Tongariro crossing as well.
Give me a bell as I should be in AKL 

Jacob Brunettewrote:

It looks like there's some stuff around Lake Taupo, is it any good? Other good stuff nearby? 

The main Taupō location is Kawakawa Bay, my favorite destination on the North Island. 

https://www.opuslocus.com/downloads/kawakawa-bay-guide.pdf has approximate YDS grades alongside the Ewbank grades for trade routes.

https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/new-zealand/lake-taupo/area/12475567

Lake Taupo is unreal. Highly recommend. Captain Caveman is a must do route imo. Great sport options there. Dan Head put up a bunch of great climbs for over a decade in that area. ClimbNZ and thecrag have more info than mtnproj.

Have fun. Support NZ climbers like Dan.

There is a small crag by the ski resort on Ruapehu, shorter approach than Kawakawa but not nearly as good climbing. Taranaki also has some good climbing, but a couple of hours of uphill to get there.

Thanks for the recs yall, I’ll definitely check out Kawakawa and the other spots mentioned. If I’m looking for partners on days that my girlfriend is working, where’s the best spot to look (either in person or online)?

I’d say the bigger gyms in Auckland are your best bet. I didn’t have much luck but my attempt was weak at best and I chose to pay a guide. I was stoked with my experience but not an option for some budgets. 

Jacob Brunettewrote:

Thanks for the recs yall, I’ll definitely check out Kawakawa and the other spots mentioned. If I’m looking for partners on days that my girlfriend is working, where’s the best spot to look (either in person or online)?

try local fb groups 

If you get down to the South Island this summer feel free to hit me up. I’m in Chch, and I’d be happy to show you around the local crags.

In addition to the North Island crags already mentioned, I’ll give a shout out to Waipari (formerly known as Froggat). My friends Merry and Emma own the land now, and they are fantastic climbers and stewards!

Take a fly rod. The Tongariro River is a known world class trout river.

I will be traveling in NZ this January and would love to climb if I can find partners. I was thinking of just bringing my sport rack. How hard is it to find partners and is MP the best platform or what should I use? Thank you!!

Adele Wwrote:

 How hard is it to find partners and is MP the best platform or what should I use? Thank you!!

MP is rarely used in NZ.  Try thecrag.com or the local Facebook groups. 

Adele Wwrote:

I will be traveling in NZ this January and would love to climb if I can find partners. I was thinking of just bringing my sport rack. How hard is it to find partners and is MP the best platform or what should I use? Thank you!!

I'm based in Wanaka and down to climb all over the south island if you're looking for someone to climb with. I have all the gears :D
FB groups work well for partners.