Favorite ice climbing/ winter alpine backcountry QD?
|
|
Thread change. Previously posted as the question below. Now changed to: Favorite ice climbing/ winter alpine backcountry QD to be used with gloves in an alpine environment. I currently have a rack of BD OZ QD's on the 12mm dynex dog bones and also BD OZ biners on 10mm/ 24" runners for alpine draws. Just seeing what folks prefer in comparison. Thanks! (Old question below): Any feedback from folks that have used the Petzl Ange Finesse QD's (especially the smaller biner on top/ larger on bottom) for ice and use with gloves? Appreciate you! https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Carabiners-And-Quickdraws/ANGE-FINESSE# |
|
|
I use these. Prefer them to all others. I run Large on both top and bottom as I'm a clod with big hands. I've got a stash of the dogbones as well as I like the dimension and stiffness. |
|
|
Used them extensively in that configuration
|
|
|
I removed the small carabiners from my draws after one season. Even getting one off of your gear loop is a nuisance when wearing gloves. |
|
|
I had a partner who had ice draws in the exact configuration you are asking about. I absolutely hated them. I found them really difficult to work with gloves on while pumped. |
|
|
I don’t mind the ange L but I hate the ange s. I struggle with getting my gloves caught etc… but the large ones are fine. Adding to my post - I also really like the WC Astro. |
|
|
Thread question changed. Appreciate all the feedback! |
|
|
I have tiny hands and I find small carabiners to be a pain with and without gloves. Like the others, I'm a fan of size L but not the S anges. I use CAMP Dyons w the camp dyneema sling. Large form factor carabiner. Easy clipping, thin nose, snagless. Dogbone is svelte and similar to old style petzl ange QD. I wouldn't trade the bolt side dyon for anything else. The rope side could reasonably be Ange L, DMM alpha trad, dyon, etc. |
|
|
WC Astro in the green length. These are seriously the most versatile piece of gear I own and use them year round for trad, sport, and ice. For such a tiny light weight draw they are easy to handle even with gloves. The helium draw is similar but with a bigger biner if you are really concerned about handling. I like these because they are small and light enough that I don't have an excuse not to carry a few extra draws just in case. My friend use Anges on his alpine draws and I absolutely hate them. Never saw the appeal. |
|
|
Camp Dyon biners. I use ultralight dyneema dogbones to save weight since a lot of the ice climbing I do has long approaches. |
|
|
Huh. Big fan of Ange S. My primary draws. For 90% of my ice climbing with perfectly fitting Hestra ergo grip gloves (no extra fingertip slop) never had an issue. If colder and wearing bulkier gloves I use some BD draws the specific model I can’t remember. I’d probably rather use Ange L just never bought them as I already had the BD and rarely need the larger biners |
|
|
I like the Camp Photons, and especially the Photon Wire Express Dyneema QD. I have them in both 12CM, and 18CM. The photon is large enough to handle with gloves, but lightweight, and a nice narrow nose to help with clipping. |
|
|
I'm also in favor of longer draws, 17 or 18cm, because of the position at which you place screws compared to clipping bolts. And Dyneema, too; nylon absorbs much more water and then freezes more readily. Very comfortable with DMM Alpha Trad carabiners; less comfortable with the current price. |
|
|
Nat Shultzwrote: NateC wrote: Camp Dyon biners. I use ultralight dyneema dogbones to save weight since a lot of the ice climbing I do has long approaches. |
|
|
the absolute smoothest action is the Petzl Angle L carabiners on 18mm dyneema dogbone (camp/DMM), even when they're frozen shut they're easy to clip the rope to. that's what i would use if money was no object, since i'm on eco mode i use 18cm dyneema camp photon draws and they're just fine. i've gotten my tip stuck in the nose more than a handful of times (fingertip cause my fingers are short and there's some slack in my gloves) and that can be annoying. |
|
|
My favorite for ice climbing is the draw that's attached to the Salewa Quick Screw. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-6TfjOfnHbY My favorite for alpine is an alpine draw. Trango Atomic sling and a couple of lightweight biners. |
|
|
For a stock QD I’ve been liking the newest model of the petal spirit. |





