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Favorite ice climbing/ winter alpine backcountry QD?

Original Post
Nat Shultz · · Cottonwood Heights · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 355

Thread change. Previously posted as the question below. Now changed to: Favorite ice climbing/ winter alpine backcountry QD to be used with gloves in an alpine environment. I currently have a rack of BD OZ QD's on the 12mm dynex dog bones and also BD OZ biners on 10mm/ 24" runners for alpine draws. Just seeing what folks prefer in comparison. Thanks! 

(Old question below):

Any feedback from folks that have used the Petzl Ange Finesse QD's (especially the smaller biner on top/ larger on bottom) for ice and use with gloves? 

Appreciate you! 

https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Carabiners-And-Quickdraws/ANGE-FINESSE#

yukonjack · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 15

I use these. Prefer them to all others. I run Large on both top and bottom as I'm a clod with big hands. I've got a stash of the dogbones as well as I like the dimension and stiffness.

akafaultline · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 225

Used them extensively in that configuration 


among the best imo. Ange and Dyon for me personally. Never hard to open, but If the gate mechanism freezes, easy to clean and get operational.

Paul Morrison · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 55

I removed the small carabiners from my draws after one season. Even getting one off of your gear loop is a nuisance when wearing gloves.

NateC · · Utah · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 1

I had a partner who had ice draws in the exact configuration you are asking about. I absolutely hated them. I found them really difficult to work with gloves on while pumped. 

Graham Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0

I don’t mind the ange L but I hate the ange s. I struggle with getting my gloves caught etc… but the large ones are fine.  

Adding to my post - I also really like the WC Astro. 

Nat Shultz · · Cottonwood Heights · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 355

Thread question changed. Appreciate all the feedback! 

Jake woo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 2

I have tiny hands and I find small carabiners to be a pain with and without gloves. Like the others, I'm a fan of size L but not the S anges.

I use CAMP Dyons w the camp dyneema sling. Large form factor carabiner. Easy clipping, thin nose, snagless. Dogbone is svelte and similar to old style petzl ange QD. I wouldn't trade the bolt side dyon for anything else. The rope side could reasonably be Ange L, DMM alpha trad, dyon, etc.

Jake907 · · Anchorage Alaska · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 5

WC Astro in the green length.  These are seriously the most versatile piece of gear I own and use them year round for trad, sport, and ice.  For such a tiny light weight draw they are easy to handle even with gloves.  The helium draw is similar but with a bigger biner if you are really concerned about handling.   I like these because they are small and light enough that I don't have an excuse not to carry a few extra draws just in case.   

My friend use Anges on his alpine draws and I absolutely hate them.  Never saw the appeal.

NateC · · Utah · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 1

Camp Dyon biners. I use ultralight dyneema dogbones to save weight since a lot of the ice climbing I do has long approaches. 

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25

Huh.  Big fan of Ange S.  My primary draws.  For 90% of my ice climbing with perfectly fitting Hestra ergo grip gloves (no extra fingertip slop) never had an issue.   If colder and wearing bulkier gloves I use some BD draws the specific model I can’t remember.   I’d probably rather use Ange L just never bought them as I already had the BD and rarely need the larger biners 

Adam Stone · · New Franklin, OH · Joined Sep 2020 · Points: 10

I like the Camp Photons, and especially the Photon Wire Express Dyneema QD.  I have them in both 12CM, and 18CM.  The photon is large enough to handle with gloves, but lightweight, and a nice narrow nose to help with clipping. 

Paul Morrison · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 55

I'm also in favor of longer draws, 17 or 18cm, because of the position at which you place screws compared to clipping bolts. And Dyneema, too; nylon absorbs much more water and then freezes more readily. Very comfortable with DMM Alpha Trad carabiners; less comfortable with the current price.

Greg Steele · · SLC, UT · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 60
Nat Shultzwrote:

Thread change. Previously posted as the question below. Now changed to: Favorite ice climbing/ winter alpine backcountry QD to be used with gloves in an alpine environment. 

NateC wrote:

Camp Dyon biners. I use ultralight dyneema dogbones to save weight since a lot of the ice climbing I do has long approaches.

+1 on camp dyons on dyneema

T T · · phx · Joined Jun 2023 · Points: 707

the absolute smoothest action is the Petzl Angle L carabiners on 18mm dyneema dogbone (camp/DMM), even when they're frozen shut they're easy to clip the rope to. that's what i would use if money was no object, since i'm on eco mode i use 18cm dyneema camp photon draws and they're just fine. i've gotten my tip stuck in the nose more than a handful of times (fingertip cause my fingers are short and there's some slack in my gloves) and that can be annoying. 

Kai Larson · · Sandy, UT · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 441

My favorite for ice climbing is the draw that's attached to the Salewa Quick Screw.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-6TfjOfnHbY

My favorite for alpine is an alpine draw.     Trango Atomic sling and a couple of lightweight biners.   

ZT G · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2020 · Points: 50

For a stock QD I’ve been liking the newest model of the petal spirit.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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