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Borah NF?

Original Post
Jake907 · · Anchorage Alaska · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 5

Works putting me nearish to the area the week of November 3.  I know it's typically a fall route and I'm probably on the late side.  Is there anywhere has good incidators of conditions? E.g. weather stations, webcams,.etc.

Alternately, are there any other recommended alpine ice routes that are comfortable but better in later season?  I'll be in the ID/UT/WY tri state area.

Andrew Mayer · · Driggs, ID · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 131

the southbound webcam on highway 93 at willow creek summit looks towards the N face and can give a slight sense of snow level 

Daniel Patrick Smith · · Boise, ID · Joined Apr 2023 · Points: 0

Hey,

I've climbed the NF Borah every October for the last four years. Early October seems to be the sweet spot, providing the best combination of filled in couloirs, exposed ice, and dry rock.

I suspect that going later in the season coupled with the wet fall will make the ice climbing easier and the rock climbing harder.

The NF Traverse route avoids the 5th class rock pitches by making a sketchy leftward traverse to exit the face by a two pitch AI 3- couloir.

So, probably not too late assuming avalanche risk is acceptable, but maybe not the most classic conditions. I can't think of any similar climb in Idaho that would be in condition.

Daniel Patrick Smith · · Boise, ID · Joined Apr 2023 · Points: 0

Hey,

I've climbed the NF Borah every October for the last four years. Early October seems to be the sweet spot, providing the best combination of filled in couloirs, exposed ice, and dry rock.

I suspect that going later in the season coupled with the wet fall will make the ice climbing easier and the rock climbing harder.

The NF Traverse route avoids the 5th class rock pitches of the Direct NF by making a sketchy leftward traverse to exit the face by a two pitch AI 3- couloir.

So, probably not too late assuming avalanche risk is acceptable, but maybe not the most classic conditions. I can't think of any similar climb in Idaho that would be in condition.

Jake907 · · Anchorage Alaska · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 5

Much appreciated guys!  

Daniel Patrick Smith · · Boise, ID · Joined Apr 2023 · Points: 0

Looking at photos, looks like I climbed it October 27 last year. Not a lot of exposed ice on the face, mostly snow climbing. We did the NF Traverse to avoid snowed up rock climbing on the Direct route.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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