Sandbaggery usually hits 10 and under the hardest.. Roughly speaking when it comes to trad grades Daks 5.8 = NH 5.9 and Seneca 5.7 or in a few cases Seneca 5.6
The retrograde plague that hit crags like the spider’s web calling routes like otl, TR and esthesia 5.10 kinda removed all the sandbaggery in the park outside the more obscure pokeo + routes and the lovely + offerings at moss cliff. Honestly aside from those crags I’ve never felt sandbagged on much here. Except romano’s route at the web. At 11c thats the best 5.12 in the park.
Dave, Really,, So you dont think that West pole roof would be 5.9 at Rumny? I think perhaps your are a better climber than average... ever done the 5.6 West pole direct finish? heck the only 5.7 I have ever done in Seneca that would be 5.7 in NH is Green Wall.. Recombeast could easily be a 7 in Seneca..
Dave, Really,, So you dont think that West pole roof would be 5.9 at Rumny? I think perhaps your are a better climber than average... ever done the 5.6 West pole direct finish? heck the only 5.7 I have ever done in Seneca that would be 5.7 in NH is Green Wall.. Recombeast could easily be a 7 in Seneca..
I cut my teeth at Seneca and climbed West Pole, and most of the classics up into lower 5.10’s many times. I’m not sure if Seneca is really too sandbagged or the style and protection challenges are just unique to the area. It has also been my experience that the lower grades at sport areas (like Rumney) often seem a good bit easier than comparably graded climbs at traditional areas. And yeah, to me, Recombeast always seemed a bit soft by Cathedral standards.
I guess that I was comparing recombeast to Nutcracker, Diedre, and Rapid Transit. I swear all those climbs were called 5.9 when I climbed them back in the ‘90’s, but maybe i’m mistaken. I just checked and those climbs all seem to be 5.10 now. Lol I guess that I’ve always been a bit out of touch with the ratings. And since you’re more local to the areas than I am now, I’ll happily respect your opinion. Cheers
P.S. When I climbed Recluse, it was also called solid 5.10, now I see it’s called .11b. It’s interesting how perceptions of difficulty seem to change.
P.P.S. Maybe my partners were just sandbagging me too. Lol