2025-26 Utah Ice

Oct 17 - Mirror Lake Highway Ice:Hard to Find Falls - not in.

Cobble Creek Falls - not inReids Peak:Golden Spike - not in (can still climb it mixed)The One Who Knocks - not inScum Couloir - not inMount Agassiz:Training Wheels - Thin looking ice at the top. Likely too thin to protect but covering rock placements.Corduroy Couloir - not inHayden Peak:The Kennedy Route - Only a thin smear on P4.Stymingerfink - Thin ice on P1. Likely too thin to protect but covering rock placements.November Wall - not in.

This post is really triggering the ole seasonal depression. Guess rock season is about over 

Thanks for sharing! This is my first season ice climbing and I'm looking forward to trying climbs on top-rope and following more experienced leaders. I'll take any and all beta on offer.  

Saw Nikkis photos but still wanted a training walk. 10/19 up Agassiz. CC has some thin stuff forming, TW is probably in enough for the bold and competent, but also thin and wet. Still 99% of a boulder snow slog up the gullies, not yet worth the walk IMO aside from training and enjoying the day :) 

Oct 23 - Mirror Lake Highway Ice - On Tuesday the 21st it was 50+ degrees in the sun on the hike into Reid's Basin.Thursday the 23rd, there was some rain in the morning and 40 degrees all day.Hard to Find Falls - not in.Cobble Creek Falls - not inReids Peak - Not much growth on the ice.Golden Spike - not in (can still climb it mixed)The One Who Knocks - not inScum Couloir - not inMount Agassiz - A lot of melt from the previous week. Training Wheels - Significant melt. Thin and de-laminated. 

Corduroy Cascade - Significant melt. Thin and de-laminated. 

Hayden Peak:The Kennedy Route - P4 smear is completely gone. Stymingerfink - Mostly gone with thin de-laminated ice left.

November Wall - not in.

Lost Lake Cirque climbs are in. Snow is low, so you can wear approach shoes to the base.

We did Moist and Juicy and Twin Daggers today. Shower Curtain is out. Moist and Juicy is going around 3+ but the top out pillar is not at all attached. Jugenheimer led that and gives it 2 out of 3 spicy beans. We left a gear anchor instead of using the rock horn described in Beehive Ice. Rapping with two 70m ropes will get you to the ground with rope stretch.

The approach WI3 ramp is out so you have to go over to Emerald Lake and hike around to access the climbs. Big commitment for the approach—5.6 miles and 3300 ft of elevation gain. I've tried getting on these climbs for 4 years now and this is the first time the approach has been doable and not impassable due to snow. The approach took our team of 3 3.5 hours from the parking lot. We started up at 5:00a, did both climbs, and were back down to the parking lot just after 4:00p.

I think when the storm blows in after Saturday, these routes will be out for the rest of the season just because you won't be able to access them.

I added two route pages for these routes with beta info and pics. Links: Moist and Juicy, Twin Daggers.

mostly dry tooling on golden spike today. 

Nov 27 - Timp. Robert's Horn, Picture Window, Moist and Juicy, and Twin Daggers.

Robert's Horn

Picture Window

Lost Lake Cirque Climbs:

Moist and Juicy

Sundial Falls on November 28

I was able to top rope solo it, but it would have been very difficult to protect on lead. 

Sundial on Dec 1. Quite a bit thicker. 

On another note, it seems like Willard Canyon is open again? https://www.willardcity.com/willard-canyon.html 

Golden spike was drier and snowier on Sunday. No surprises there. Didn’t see any other ice to speak of on the drive or walk. 

Looking for someone to go poke around in Provo canyon this Sunday and workout at the fitness Den. Hit me up!

Lake Mary climbs are in. Alzcleimbers wasn't last week but after a warm week and hard freeze may be now. Left conditions reports as temp comments on the climb pages.

Is GWI still melted out or did it recover at all? I've got a beginner I'd like to take up the first pitch or two

Edit: it's out

Probably already blasted elsewhere but Stairway is being climbed. Late November conditions.

1st pitch White Nightmare looks doable with clipping bolts.

S Simswrote:

Probably already blasted elsewhere but Stairway is being climbed. Late November conditions.

1st pitch White Nightmare looks doable with clipping bolts.

I lead the first pitch of White Nightmare with solid 17cm screws yesterday. 

NateCwrote:

I lead the first pitch of White Nightmare with solid 17cm screws yesterday. 

Nice! Looked decent. Thanks for adding!

Provo is in enough to swing some tools and get some pitches in.

Haven't been up LCC in a while - GWI still just a wet smear or is there ice?

2 days ago it was doable. Safe? not really!