Ohmega Experiences

Got an ohmega and used it for the first time last night. I've used the ohm 1 for years and it seems so far like an improvement in every way. No added rope drag, much lighter, and the adjustable resistance let me dial it in for my belayer. I took a fall at maybe 15 feet up with a bolt at my waist and managed to avoid both getting spiked and kicking my belayer in the head which is exactly the scenario I get concerned about while climbing without the ohm. There's probably a 15-20 pound difference between me and my belayer. I used it on the lightest resistance setting. Any other experiences out there? Different weight gaps? Seems like the thing can do a lot.

I’ve used it with belayer that was about 40lbs lighter than me in its lightest setting. Took large falls outside in fairly overhanging territory. I took soft falls and she didn’t get lifted as much as usual. I had none of the issues of device lock or clipping that I got with the original ohm. I had it placed on vertical and slab routes without issues of it locking up, didn’t take falls in this scenario. So far it’s worked beautifully on its first two days out and performs like I wish the original ohm would’ve.

So I know that the Neox is having trouble with dust getting into the wheel bearing and causing it to bind. Any thoughts on whether the Ohmega could be affected the same way?

Devan Beewrote:

So I know that the Neox is having trouble with dust getting into the wheel bearing and causing it to bind. Any thoughts on whether the Ohmega could be affected the same way?

Hey Devan,

you have to differentiate here. The Neox has a specifically constructed wheel with an internal mechanism built inside. With the Ohmega we are talking about a standard slide bearing pulley. Nothing fancy inside.

Lets get these things back in stock please! 

So, are these available in the U.S.?  Particularly in light of many Euro retailers no longer shipping to this country due to tariffs.
I could not find any domestic retailers.
Also, are there any advantages of the Ohm II v. the Ohmega? 

I have found no advantage of the ohm ii over my Ohmega. 

I just got a response from Edelrid, USA. They expect Ohmegas to ship to US retailers at the end of November. You cannot find them in the U.S. market currently. 

I got a similar response from a European distributor. I guess Edelrid have a second batch arriving November and everyone has orders in already. 

We are really liking the ohmega. About 60lb weight difference between my wife and me. Currently using the "+2" setting (20kg), though haven't taken any significant falls.  We do use the "slip knot" method for middle setting where you put a bite of the carabiner webbing thru the other loop rather than clipping both loop - it orients the rope away from the wall better that way.  We own an Ohm2.  Only "advantage" to ohm2 was that nice swivel they put at the top.

You don't really need the swivel for the ohmega because it orients the rope directly away from the wall (out from the wall) rather than to one side or the other.  But, it is possible to kinda "back clip" the ohmega where the rope heads into the wall instead of away from the wall.  I am not sure if that impacts its functionality, but I did it once at the gym and it seemed to pull funny & didnt look like a good setup (I was just a bolt higher when my wife said it looked funky, so I downclimbed and turned the carabiner around).  

Just like regular clipping, you just have to pay attention to the bolt-side carabiner when you clip in to the bolt & this probably only likely to happen when you pre-install rope into device on the ground & then just clip it when getting to first bolt as I tend to do.  I guess it could happen when you stick clip the device to first bolt, especially if you have to turn around stick clip to get access to bolt if your planned clip didnt work because of orientation of bolt hanger was funky.

Again, not positive that it impacts functionality, but seems like it could 🤷

We are at a 45-50 pounds and have found setting one was enough.  I'm curious what the slip knot method is?

I borrowed somebody's Ohmega at the gym last week and took some falls on it. I outweigh my partner by like 50lbs, and we typically climb with a Zaed (original) on setting 2 or 3 depending on steepness. My favorite part of the Zaed over the Ohms is that I don't get short-roped constantly with the Zaed, and the ohmega was almost indistinguishable for clipping as the climber compared to the Zaed, which is a HUGE improvement over the ohms. 

I took the same fall on the Ohmega in the lowest setting and then on the Zaed levels 1, 2, & 3. Basic results: The ohmega lowest friction was somewhere between Zaed level 2 & 3, but actually provided a softer experience for my belayer without making my felt catch noticeably harder. Not sure how they did that, perhaps the camming action is more progressive than the pure friction braking of the Zaed? The Zaed level 1 was straight up not safe for our weight difference, belayer went all the way up to the first bolt until the GriGri was jammed into the Zaed. 

I love my original Ti Zaed but after 1 fall on the ohmega my partner asked to buy this guy's ohmega and he said sorry not for sale. I will be getting one in a heartbeat when available, especially for outdoor climbing where stick clipping the 2nd bolt (as required by the Zaed) is not feasible. I'll still use my Zaed in the gym where bolts are closely space and low to the ground, but the ohmega is really slick. Probably why they are sold out everywhere right now... here's hoping the price doesn't double due to tariffs when the next batch arrives. 

Having used the Ohmega, and catching multiple large falls (climbers that outweigh me by 50-55lb, on the lightest setting) I can confidently say that paying extra tariff fees was worth it for me to get the device earlier.

REI customer service says it would be in stock in late November, not sure how reliable that is.

This is a helpful videoto watch on finer points of Ohmega belaying, beyond the basics offered in the product insert.

"Slip knot method" only for 2+ setting.  Saw it on an Edelrid video, tho quite sure it is not in the manual.  If you hook both strands with a carabiner, then the device hangs sideways a bit.  With slip knot the rope comes out from the wall towards climber like normal.  No resistance difference that we can discern.

Lena chitawrote:

Having used the Ohmega, and catching multiple large falls (climbers that outweigh me by 50-55lb, on the lightest setting) I can confidently say that paying extra tariff fees was worth it for me to get the device earlier.

REI customer service says it would be in stock in late November, not sure how reliable that is.

This is a helpful videoto watch on finer points of Ohmega belaying, beyond the basics offered in the product insert.

 

Thanks for that link Lena, helped me find his "ohmega basic functions" video where he (Edelrid) shows the slip knot method for the +2 setting.

https://youtu.be/cRkLYw0WGqU?si=pvLnSem97W3E4sDL

RTFM :) Please 🙏

Phil Westenbergerwrote:

RTFM :) Please 🙏

Phil,

Obviously you are correct - it is in the manual, which I have "read" ... or at least viewed the 30-some pictograms - so sorry to have deeply offended you! (I only said I was "pretty sure it wasn't in the manual", I didnt have it with me when I posted & had seen the method on video before I owned the device).

The part I did contribute is that if you use the non-alternative method, it tips the device sideways, that may not impact functionality, but it is more funky than when device faces away from the wall when you use alternative method (or as I called it, the "slip knot method") 🤷

Peter Underwoodwrote:

Phil,

Obviously you are correct - it is in the manual, which I have "read" ... or at least viewed the 30-some pictograms - so sorry to have deeply offended you! (I only said I was "pretty sure it wasn't in the manual", I didnt have it with me when I posted & had seen the method on video before I owned the device).

The part I did contribute is that if you use the non-alternative method, it tips the device sideways, that may not impact functionality, but it is more funky than when device faces away from the wall when you use alternative method (or as I called it, the "slip knot method") 🤷

Hey, no worries — I didn’t mean it in a grumpy way at all! 😊
I just have this soft spot for instruction manuals (pictures and text!) — especially when it comes to climbing gear. It’s probably the difference between reading the manual for a washing machine and one for something that keeps us off the ground! 😉
So whenever I notice someone might’ve skipped it, I can’t resist giving a little friendly nudge to take a look. All good — glad you checked it out in the end. If that came across as arrogant or preachy in any way, that definitely wasn’t my intention — sorry about that, mate! All good. 👍

I too am a manual fanatic!  So we are mates (obviously not an attentive fanatic!).  I have a "rock climbing " folder in my file cabinet filled with them for everything I own ... ok, I have stopped collecting the 50 page manuals for carabiners!  Thickest folder in my file cabinet, nearest rival being the mortgage document file folder, only near as large because of the legal size documents that are a PITA to file.

I used to hate the pictograms, especially when they have no companion text to explain them. Now its like a challenge to figure out if I can discern what the hell they are trying to convey.

To bring it back to Ohmega topic, yesterday at the gym I set up the device to climb preclipped to rope & was anticipating a right hand clip so put on my right side, but first clip was lefty, so I reached over, grabbed device, somehow spun it the wrong way & ended up with a clusterf@$&% rope twist (twice somehow) - then rather than unclip & spin it back I attempted to crawl over & under the rope a couple times & it was still ass-backwards so I still had to unclip & reclip.  🙄.  Was tuckered out from all these shenanigans, so made it maybe 1/3 of route before first hang & maybe 1 or 2 more before completing route. My much lighter belayer was quite happy to have lighter load 💩on her end with ohmega.

I think I wasn't paying much attention being used to ohm2 & its nice swivel.  You could clip that ass backwards & it righted itself almost magically.  Tho 50+ uses of ohmega one would think i wouldn't screw it up so badly. Attracted attention of floor manager who came over to see what the doofus was doing crawling over&under his rope indoors 🙄🙄. 

Peter Underwoodwrote:

I too am a manual fanatic!  So we are mates (obviously not an attentive fanatic!).  I have a "rock climbing " folder in my file cabinet filled with them for everything I own ... ok, I have stopped collecting the 50 page manuals for carabiners!  Thickest folder in my file cabinet, nearest rival being the mortgage document file folder, only near as large because of the legal size documents that are a PITA to file.

I used to hate the pictograms, especially when they have no companion text to explain them. Now its like a challenge to figure out if I can discern what the hell they are trying to convey.

To bring it back to Ohmega topic, yesterday at the gym I set up the device to climb preclipped to rope & was anticipating a right hand clip so put on my right side, but first clip was lefty, so I reached over, grabbed device, somehow spun it the wrong way & ended up with a clusterf@$&% rope twist (twice somehow) - then rather than unclip & spin it back I attempted to crawl over & under the rope a couple times & it was still ass-backwards so I still had to unclip & reclip.  🙄.  Was tuckered out from all these shenanigans, so made it maybe 1/3 of route before first hang & maybe 1 or 2 more before completing route. My much lighter belayer was quite happy to have lighter load 💩on her end with ohmega.

I think I wasn't paying much attention being used to ohm2 & its nice swivel.  You could clip that ass backwards & it righted itself almost magically.  Tho 50+ uses of ohmega one would think i wouldn't screw it up so badly. Attracted attention of floor manager who came over to see what the doofus was doing crawling over&under his rope indoors 🙄🙄. 

So, do you prefer the Ohm 2 or the Ohmega?

I have been climbing with my wife for almost 30 years, and I outweigh her by 45 to 55 pounds. We never really had an issue, but I just started a new project where I need to climb up a low angle apron to start up a very overhanging wall. We found that if I fall low, I drag her up the apron, which is unpleasant for her, and I hit the rope, which is unpleasant for me.

Frank,  we definitely prefer ohmega.  Much more flexibility ... I have already used with someone just barely heavier than me - how great is that, but main use with my wife who I outweigh by 30kg (using in +2 setting works for us with our 9.5 rope, bet i will use in 3+ setting when using my slick narrower unicore rope - havent tried it yet).  We also have climbs we like that start out low angle slab & nowhere to anchor my wife.  Crappy situation for her, like you say.

Ohmega really is less "catchy" (if at all) than Ohm 1 or Ohm 2. (I only own Ohm2, but have briefly used an Ohm1).  Ohmega does reduce friction at first bolt compared to even regular quickdraw (I think), certainly over Ohm use.

My wife loves it for no hassle lowering & i think as much that she can now move ALL OVER THE PLACE while belaying, so she stands pretty far from wall & makes it so much easier to give me slack just by walking forward then taking by just walking back.  Couldnt do that as well with Ohm because it would want to engage & then i would get short-roped clipping.  No more!

Not having to anchor her in is so freeing for her & obviously safer.

Half the weight & half the size of ohmega vs either Ohm & kinda no trainer (did love the swivel on Ohm2, but not something they could easily incorporate in ohmega & would add weight & not necessary unless you are a bone head like me & twirl the device while rope is inserted & try to clip it like that 🥴🙄)

(Not sponsored by Edelrid, but open to it if they contact me!  Please! I seem to be collecting Edelrid gear lately 😐, I could be their representative 5.8 climber, probably don't have any of those in their stable of sponsored climbers! Tommy Caldwell & I might as well be participating in entirely different sports)