Ohm vs Omega

Since these devices are both available, I want to try to understand how they are different. 

Here's my understanding so far.  Please correct me if I'm wrong.  I am especially interested in whether or not the devices work when clipped only to the first bolt (before you climb further and clip additional bolts). 

Ohmega

• Has a wheel to reduce friction
• Works when clipped to first bolt (you don't need to clip additional pieces above)
• Has adjustable resistance
• Lighter
• More complex
• More expensive

Ohm

• Does not have a wheel to reduce friction
• Works when clipped to first bolt (you do not need to clip additional pieces above) 
• Does not adjustable resistance
• Heavier
• Simpler
• Less expensive

Also any information or leaked images of the "resistance adding device" that is is being developed by Mammut for spring 2026 release?

Bruno Schullwrote:

Since these devices are both available, I want to try to understand how they are different. 

Here's my understanding so far.  Please correct me if I'm wrong.  I am especially interested in whether or not the devices work when clipped only to the first bolt (before you climb further and clip additional bolts). 

Ohmega

• Has a wheel to reduce friction
• Works when clipped to first bolt (you don't need to clip additional pieces above)
• Has adjustable resistance
• Lighter
• More complex
• More expensive

Ohm

• Does not have a wheel to reduce friction
• Does not work when clipped to first bolt (you do need to clip additional pieces above) 
• Does not adjustable resistance
• Heavier
• Simpler
• Less expensive

Also any information or leaked images of the "resistance adding device" that is is being developed by Mammut for spring 2026 release?

• The Ohmega does not cost more (at least here in their home market). Edit: As of August 19th, both cost 125€ on the Edelrid site
• The Ohm DOES work when only the first bolt is clipped (the original ZAED does not)
• The Ohm locks up, shortropes the climber, and makes for very hard catches. All of these problems the Ohmega supposedly solves.

I'm looking forward to the reviews and comparisons of the Zaed Pro (1st bolt protection added) versus the Ohmega. We are in for a good time.

Thanks for that information Biggi El--I will edit my original post to reflect the first bolt protection issue. 

Here where I live (Switzerland) there is a price difference.  

I have used both.  I think I would frame as such.  Ohm both climber and belayer need to be an artist with the tool.. ohmega gumbies welcome all around.

I would add the caveat of "there is potential to" to Biggi's comment.  I.e. I have short roped myself using the ohm, this likely came about from trying to rapidly clip, could also be belayer positioning.  N of 1, I haven't gotten a hard catch, but my wife is much lighter than myself and she doesn't stand meters away from the wall.

So ohm not really ideal for trying to limit onsight, at all.

Still early days, but, the ohmega does seem like it has solved the issues, it is a joy to use.

Both do however, according to the lighter belayers, provide much peace of mind.

Edit: i just used the +++ setting, could have been my rope but, found this to be not so smooth.  Tough to pull for clips and such, prob will stick with +.

I've been using an Ohm II for a few months and I demoed an Ohmega yesterday. Not bad. I like it more than the Ohm II (mostly). Less short-rope issues. And after hanging or falling and getting back on the wall, it doesn't lock up as much like the Ohm II does. Ohmega is smaller and lighter. I do wish it had a swivel of some sort like the Ohm II, though. That is a nice feature for not having to worry about orientation when clipping.

I tested it with my GF as belayer. I'm 205 lbs. and she's about 120 lbs. So a healthy 80-lb. weight difference. I thought the highest friction setting on the Ohmega was too much. Very hard catch. Belayer didn't move at all. Middle setting was better. Belayer got lifted up maybe 1-2 feet off ground. Fall was a bit softer. I think that even with an 80-lb. weight difference, I would prefer the lightest setting. Just enough to help my belayer not get sucked up to the first draw. But still provide a soft catch if belayer doesn't jump. I was using an Edelrid Boa 9.8 rope.

The only issue with the Ohmega is where to get one. Nobody seems to have any in stock.

I get that Edelrid needs to sell their Ohms, but is there any reason someone would buy an Ohm over the Ohmega? I hated the Ohm and stopped using it even though I often have a large weight differential (175-100). Pretty excited for the Ohmega.

(Also, if anyone wants to buy a cheap Ohm, hit me up)

Frazerwrote:

I have used both.  I think I would frame as such.  Ohm both climber and belayer need to be an artist with the tool.. ohmega gumbies welcome all around.

I would add the caveat of "there is potential to" to Biggi's comment.  I.e. I have short roped myself using the ohm, this likely came about from trying to rapidly clip, could also be belayer positioning.  N of 1, I haven't gotten a hard catch, but my wife is much lighter than myself and she doesn't stand meters away from the wall.

So ohm not really ideal for trying to limit onsight, at all.

Still early days, but, the ohmega does seem like it has solved the issues, it is a joy to use.

Both do however, according to the lighter belayers, provide much peace of mind.

I also use the Ohm (II) to climb with my wife. It's very nice for vertical terrain. With an overhung or wandering route, I get short-roped frequently. It's just a "pinch" geometry rather than a cam, so the angle/force you're pulling the rope through, and where the belayer stands, are unforgiving. Looking forward to trying out the Ohmega, the camming action seems like a major improvement.

Garret McLeanwrote:

I get that Edelrid needs to sell their Ohms, but is there any reason someone would buy an Ohm over the Ohmega? I hated the Ohm and stopped using it even though I often have a large weight differential (175-100). Pretty excited for the Ohmega.

(Also, if anyone wants to buy a cheap Ohm, hit me up)

As far as I can tell, the ONLY thing the Ohm II does that the Ohmega does not is the swivel attachment so you don't need to worry about how you clip the first bolt.