Searching for Sea Cliff Climb Routes

Can we crowd source some US sea cliff climbs like this A Dream of White Horses in the UK?

Inspiration: youtu.be/ci6lvdAV-Hw?featur…

Looking for some trad in the US like this to plan for in the next year. 5.5-5.8 preferred. Photos and videos are appreciated!

Try looking at Acadia

Tettegouche state park in MN has sea cliff climbs over Lake Superior. Majority are harder than 5.8 but worth checking out

Thomas Howellwrote:

Try looking at Acadia

Definitely - for that range Otter cliff and extended area is great and you can do trad or top rope. 

Morning glory: Great Head, Acadia National Park

Casey Jwrote:

Definitely - for that range Otter cliff and extended area is great and you can do trad or top rope. 

Otter cliff is an absolute gold mine of climbs. Definitely need to go there. Is there a good time of year and day with tides for these spots?

Might need to find someone to follow on Morning Glory. Looks too cool.

The Great Lakes always surprise me coming from a coastal life. I need to get out to MN.

I’m curious about everyone else’s thoughts on A Dream of White Horses. Such a great climb and video. I hope I make it some day.

Lakewrote:

Tettegouche state park in MN has sea cliff climbs over Lake Superior. Majority are harder than 5.8 but worth checking out

Shovel Point (a little north of Palisade Head, behind the State Park visitor center) has a number of good ones plus bomber fixed anchor bolts at the top.

Kyle Gilbertwrote:

 bomber fixed anchor bolts at the top.

These make a HMS triple locker look like a keychain biner.

Instead of "don't hook a finger through the bolt hanger," beginner climbers in Minnesota are taught "don't try to fist-jam the Shovel anchor bolts." :-D

F r i t zwrote:

These make a HMS triple locker look like a keychain biner.

Instead of "don't hook a finger through the bolt hanger," beginner climbers in Minnesota are taught "don't try to fist-jam the Shovel anchor bolts." :-D

Grant Jwrote:

Otter cliff is an absolute gold mine of climbs. Definitely need to go there. Is there a good time of year and day with tides for these spots?

Might need to find someone to follow on Morning Glory. Looks too cool.

The Great Lakes always surprise me coming from a coastal life. I need to get out to MN.

I’m curious about everyone else’s thoughts on A Dream of White Horses. Such a great climb and video. I hope I make it some day.

Just be realistic (so there is no disappointment) on the scale of the climbs at Otter - about 1/10th the size of Dream of White Horses.

Eric Engbergwrote:

Just be realistic (so there is no disappointment) on the scale of the climbs at Otter - about 1/10th the size of Dream of White Horses.

Oof that’s fair. Appreciate that Eric.

Sea cragging is my favorite kind of cragging. The UK is loaded with it, from Scotland on down to England. Italy has a lot too, I’m sure other Euro nations as well. There just isn’t much sea cragging in the US. The majority of the east coast, Acadia excepted, doesn’t have much rock along the ocean, and the west coast tends to have crappy rock. Evan Wisheropp has put up routes somewhere in NorCal I think. Acadia and Tettegouche are the two best areas, throw in Rogers Rock in the Adirondacks for multipitch above a gorgeous lake.

Tony Danzawrote:

Sea cragging is my favorite kind of cragging. The UK is loaded with it, from Scotland on down to England. Italy has a lot too, I’m sure other Euro nations as well. There just isn’t much sea cragging in the US. The majority of the east coast, Acadia excepted, doesn’t have much rock along the ocean, and the west coast tends to have crappy rock. Evan Wisheropp has put up routes somewhere in NorCal I think. Acadia and Tettegouche are the two best areas, throw in Rogers Rock in the Adirondacks for multipitch above a gorgeous lake.

I’ll take any places to tick around the world too. I’ll share Captain Caveman in Lake Taupo, New Zealand. Legendary climb. See the crag for more info.

Thanks Tony Danza!

Calanques? 

For adventurous sea cliff climbing in a beautiful North American setting I offer three little words that are actually only one big word:

New 

Found

Land.

That is all. 

 ambata di melu : https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/794199/fr/bocca-lenzana-ambata-di-melu

Fun route in corsica

Edgewrote:

For adventurous sea cliff climbing in a beautiful North American setting I offer three little words that are actually only one big word:

New 

Found

Land.

That is all. 

Per usual Loren has an interesting way with words.  And counting.  But he is correct that New Newfoundland (got it down to 1 word) has incredible sea cliff climbing .  Year round.  Ask Joe Treveccia 

Quebec has some things that aren't too shabby also.

Tim Wattswrote:

 ambata di melu : https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/794199/fr/bocca-lenzana-ambata-di-melu

Fun route in corsica

Che figata! Non sono mai stato a scalare in Corsica, dev’essere bellissimo.

Kyle Gilbertwrote:

Holy shit!

I’d really like to know the story behind those comically large hangers. Those aren’t commercially available, right? Someone must have fabricated them specially for these anchors, but… why?

Hson Pwrote:

I’d really like to know the story behind those comically large hangars. Those aren’t commercially available, right? Someone must have fabricated them specially for these anchors, but… why?

Something similar is present on a lot of the trade/rappel routes on Devils Tower. I think they are/were made by Metolius and called 'rap hangers' or similar. Not 100% sure if they're the same model. They're fricken beefy tho