Summer climbing areas with young kids

Looking to build a dream list of areas to hit for a few weeks to escape the hell hole of the South in the middle of summer over the next few years. Fun bolt clipping with reasonable conditions during the day (not hitting those shade starts at 5:00pm crags), approaches <20 minutes or so, ideally a few routes down to 5.9-10 and up to mid 13. (A good mix of 6's to 8's for the euros.) And not super expensive, so Switzerland and Norway are probably out. 

We went to Lander last year, were a bit worried about the altitude but it was fine. We'll most likely go back at some point, but not 100% in love with the style. Obviously Maple and Rifle are on the list, and maybe Ten Sleep. Once you add in the travel it isn't that much farther for us to get to Europe. How do Rodellar, Briançon, Gorges du Tarn, Frankenjura, other crags we might not even know of over here compare? 

Bonus points for ease of living. Taking kids to the crag is an adventure enough, no need to rough it in the dirt in rural Utah when we could be drinking a bier and have a sausage crag side in Germany.

The big 3 for summer sport climbing in the US are Rifle, Maple, Tensleep. Each is great, but each has it's own pros/cons.

I'm also not totally a fan of Lander, especially as a summer destination. The main popular walls there get a lot of sun (have to wait for late evening shade) and the aggressive pocket pulling style can be harsh. I prefer Ten Sleep - the climbing style is a bit more often vert/tech and crimpy, and less about aggressive pocket cranking (though there is still a bit of that). It also gets good afternoon shade at the main walls starting at 1 pm ish. Even if you didn't love Lander, I'd suggest you still take a look at Ten Sleep.

Rifle is great for what you're looking for. Nice campground, lovely creek going through the canyon, exceptionally short approaches, tons of shade options, great hard climbing. You see a lot of families there due to the accessibility - Rifle is the sort of place you see climbers pushing a stroller around in between burns on their 5.13 project.  One caveat is that the 5.10 and 5.11 climbing is more limited and generally not as good as the hard climbing.

Maple has a wide range of grades, fun user-friendly climbing, unique rock, lots of shade, and mostly easy approaches. Camping is decent but not quite as nice as Rifle. Dryer/dustier.

I'd also suggest you strongly consider Squamish for a sport climbing trip. While it is more famous for the trad and bouldering, the sport climbing is also quite good and extensive, especially considering the significant recent development. And it is, logistically, pretty ideal for what you are looking for. Wide grade range, variety of styles, easy access/approaches, lots of good shade options, generally pleasant summer conditions, no altitude issues, good town amenities, various camping options, great scenery, good rest day activities for kids (lots of nice lakes). It's a pretty ideal family vacation spot.

Elsewhere in Canada: probably avoid Canmore. While it is a great summer sport climbing area, and a great place to visit in general, the approaches to the best sport crags tend to be very rugged - not a kid friendly area. Save it for when the kids are older and can hike.

Thanks! I’ve briefly visited Rifle and Maple, and each does have its drawbacks. If I can get my wife to level up a bit and if the kids would behave for 45 minutes of me crawling through knee bars Rifle would be great. Honestly one of the unsung pros - with kids- of wild iris is how little time you need to get up a route.

We actually used to live in Seattle and spent a lot of time in Squamish, although mostly not on the sport. I don’t think we would fly that far and pay that much to climb at pet wall. Ive never actually went to chek though, and only bouldered at paradise. Those routes look limited but amazing.

Good to hear that about Canmore. Would love to mage it there one day but will save it. 

dylandylandylandylan anddylanwrote:

We actually used to live in Seattle and spent a lot of time in Squamish, although mostly not on the sport. I don’t think we would fly that far and pay that much to climb at pet wall. Ive never actually went to chek though, and only bouldered at paradise. Those routes look limited but amazing.

There's quite a lot more now than just the old school areas of Pet Wall and the Circus / Big Show at Chek. It takes some research though since some is new and is documented in online topos. Paradise Valley, new crags in the Chek area, Rogues Gallery, Fern Hill, other new stuff up the Mamquam, etc... It really is a major sport climbing destination at this point.

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Re: short routes. Although Rifle and Maple are famous for the long pumpy routes, they both offer some fantastic options for short bouldery power routes also if that is more manageable with the family. In Rifle, check out the Wasteland and the Winchester Cave. In Maple check out the Box Canyon.

How does somewhere Rifle or Maple compare to the European summer spots? In terms of climate, accessibility, rock quality, etc. 

dylandylandylandylan anddylanwrote:

How does somewhere Rifle or Maple compare to the European summer spots? In terms of climate, accessibility, rock quality, etc. 

"Compare"--in what way? There are many more areas in Europe--even ones that are fine in summer ( many cragging areas in the Dolomites, for example, in addition to the big mountain routes) with many different characteristics between them; such as accessibility, rock quality, aesthetics, grade range, etc. For example, Rifle is very accessible and excellent for the upper grades, but, in my opinion, not very good for 10 and below. There are many similar areas in Europe, but also ones with better selections of good quality easier routes. So it really depends on what characteristics are most important for you.

Alan Rubinwrote:

"Compare"--in what way? There are many more areas in Europe--even ones that are fine in summer ( many cragging areas in the Dolomites, for example, in addition to the big mountain routes) with many different characteristics between them; such as accessibility, rock quality, aesthetics, grade range, etc. For example, Rifle is very accessible and excellent for the upper grades, but, in my opinion, not very good for 10 and below. There are many similar areas in Europe, but also ones with better selections of good quality easier routes. So it really depends on what characteristics are most important for you.

See above: easy approach, good weather in the middle of summer, suitable hangs for young children, wide range of grades 10a-13+. 

This won't be a first choice for the (rock) climbing elite, but check out Ouray, Colorado: the self-proclaimed "Switzerland of America".  Great ice climbing, but also a very a solid summer choice for families with kids.  It's a short drive from the airport in Montrose. The entire town is walkable with plenty of great restaurants.  The public pool at the end of town is affordable and geo-thermal fed with spectacular views and waterslides for the kids.  

Rotary Park crag at the edge of town has the easiest approach (it's literally a park next to the main road), has a playground for the young kids, has a bathroom with running water, and has climbs from 5.4 to 5.12+ and wasn't crowded at all when my wife and I climbed there. There are several other crags in the area with easy approaches as well, which you can find here on MP or in their local guidebook.

Rent some lanyards and try the free Via Ferrata routes in the Box Canyon (though they now require you to hire a guide if you're bringing the kids on it) which are super fun.

Rent a jeep and head into the alpine on some 4x4 trails.

Take a day off and visit Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park which is east of Montrose.

It's a great place.

the east side of the sierra has a few good options:

rock creek - gong show wall

tioga cliffs - stay in june or up in tuolomne - tuolomne does have a handful of sport crags (medlicott, east cottage, 

mammoth lakes - dike wall and mountainview

Kevin Armstrongwrote:

the east side of the sierra has a few good options:

rock creek - gong show wall

tioga cliffs - stay in june or up in tuolomne - tuolomne does have a handful of sport crags (medlicott, east cottage, 

mammoth lakes - dike wall and mountainview

Id also recommend the matrimony wall between mammoth and June lake if your in the area. Good mix of 10-12(I think have only been on the 10s but remember there being routes way outside of my grade range on the wall) with an incredibly short approach and shady trees to relax under and none of the routes are too tall that the kids would be on their own while you and your partner climb.

And staying in mammoth is great for family trips I’ve been doing since before I could walk and as long as you aren’t there during the 4th of July weekend it’s not too busy. while it gets warm in the summer it’s never too bad

Horseshoe Canyon Ranch in Jasper, Arkansas? Still hot but easy access. Loads of routes. Kid friendly. Cool of in the stunning Buffalo River.

Some good suggestions I hadn't thought of. I've never sport climbed around the Sierra, and it would be cool to see some mountains and jump in lakes or hot springs. 

I think we can write off anything in the southeast during school summer break. 

I still am wondering about European options. The west coast is basically just as far for us and probably at least as expensive. 

Kalymnos famously has a climber café with daycare included. Definitely not a summer destination, though, you will roast there. The few places in Gorges du Tarn I went to had pretty sketchy approaches/bases, definitely not kid friendly. Same for Gorges de la Jonte. Ailefroide should probably be high on your list, though it's more multi-pitch. The campground at the base is amazing, and there are lots of great hikes in the area. Also quite cool in the summer because of its elevation.

dylandylandylandylan anddylanwrote:

Looking to build a dream list of areas to hit for a few weeks to escape the hell hole of the South in the middle of summer over the next few years. Fun bolt clipping with reasonable conditions during the day (not hitting those shade starts at 5:00pm crags), approaches <20 minutes or so, ideally a few routes down to 5.9-10 and up to mid 13. (A good mix of 6's to 8's for the euros.) And not super expensive, so Switzerland and Norway are probably out. 

We went to Lander last year, were a bit worried about the altitude but it was fine. We'll most likely go back at some point, but not 100% in love with the style. Obviously Maple and Rifle are on the list, and maybe Ten Sleep. Once you add in the travel it isn't that much farther for us to get to Europe. How do Rodellar, Briançon, Gorges du Tarn, Frankenjura, other crags we might not even know of over here compare? 

For summer climbing with kids, check out Rodellar, Spain - short shady approaches (like Fuenfres sector), routes from 5.10a, and affordable stays in Alquézar. Gorges du Tarn also works with afternoon shade on 5.8+ routes. Ten Sleep has morning shade but fewer easy climbs.

Check out Shelf Road near Canon City, CO.  I was just there a few weeks ago with my kids and it checks a lot of the boxes you are looking for.  There is decent camping at the base of the crag with the climbs an easy 15-20 minute hike/walk right from your tent and Canon City is about 25 minutes away with good rest day activities.  The climbing is up a series of canyons (picture a spread hand) so you can find shade somewhere in each canyon at almost any time of day.  We climbed on a 90 degree day in the Gallery and stayed comfortable in the shade all day without too much hiking around - basically just followed the shade around the edge of the canyon throughout the day.

Absolutely disregard shelf road for any season but late fall to early spring.

While you can climb in the shade it's going to absolutely brutal to exist there. 

Brandon Ribblettwrote:

Absolutely disregard shelf road for any season but late fall to early spring.

While you can climb in the shade it's going to absolutely brutal to exist there. 

I suppose I should add the caveat that I was coming from the upper midwest (95 degrees with 90% humidity and the humidity contribution from "corn sweat" being an actual real thing discussed in our forecast) so that dry CO air with a low of 85 degrees at night seemed awesome to us.  YMMV.