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Dynema/n ylon deterioration in controlled storage conditions?

Original Post
El Duderino · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 70

Just wondering what people's perspectives on retiring unused gear because it's past a recommended date since manufacturing.  I hear the 5 year/10 year rules for dyneema/nylon, respectively.  However, I've recently gotten back into multipitch after a 10 year hiatus.  My slings were all fairly new, used maybe a handful of times prior and then stored in a dry plastic tote in my gear closet.  Should I be reslinging all my cams and replacing all my dyneema alpine draws regardless?  I can post photos for reference if that'd be helpful to assess condition...

D K · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2025 · Points: 0

This question gets asked a lot. Answers will come in a few general categories:

  • Manufacturers recommend....
  • Your life isn't worth the price of gear. If you have any doubt, just replace it...
  • There are some studies and tests that were done...

Pick whatever works for you.

Or just watch these videos because they are fun.

George Bracksieck · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 3,920

Abrasion, cutting, strong acids (such as from a car battery), and high impact degrade dyneema and nylon. Longterm exposure to UV also degrades nylon. If your storage is free from those problems, I would be comfortable leading on any of it. Of course, always carefully examine your gear before using it. 

Joshua Jackson · · Branson, MO · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 230

Even if your slings look good and were stored well, materials can weaken over time just sitting there. If they weren’t exposed to sun, chemicals, or dirt, that’s a plus, but I’d still be cautious since it’s safety gear. If you want, you can post pics and maybe people who know more can help you decide if they’re still good or need replacing.

Andy R · · MA · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 46

Just climb. You know that they've just been sitting inside a closet - not in someone's car next to a leaking car battery / THE SUN.

Mainly: be wary of faded / abraded / crispy slings

Lots of tests of used / abraded / UV'ed slings on youtube if you seek it out (hownot2 has a lot). The 10 year rule is just lawyer general terms for "cover your ass" for the companies.

K Go · · Seattle, WA · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 170

Go by feel and appearance over age. Faded colors, super dirty / frayed / knicked, stiff or crispy from sun exposure, etc. are big red flags. Tech cords and dyneema lose strength from bending (like weighted knots) more than age. Stored inside and not used basically doesn't add wear, at least not enough to matter for standard climbing loads. Hell, I've bootied a few cams with slings that have no date on them at all... and have whipped on a couple of them. If it looks good, send it, but if it gives you pause, replace / resling it. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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