Devils Lake Toprope Clusterf*** PART 3

Garrett Hopkins wrote:

This isn’t true. I don’t even rock climb. I’m actually a very serious water skier.
Rock climbing seems far too dangerous for my delicate sensibilities

I like the cut of your jib Garrett.  I’m the same way. Though not as serious….I’m lucky to catch a single buoy with 15 off these days.  

Garrett Hopkins wrote:

Bold of you to assume I like the quad anchor. Or that we have bolts at DL

Not at all assuming, sorry if that's how it sounded.

Just saying that most anchors with identifiable flaws are still not lethal situations.

And thanks for urging them to look into some professional education...

Garrett Hopkins wrote:

Let’s get this back on track. Belay is ON

Oh how I love tipped out cams in loose blocks, tri-axial loaded non-lockers, and whatever that master point is doing. “Pre-tied quad enjoyer” behavior

Kyle Harding wrote:

Everyone knows the unwritten rule to this thread; no commenting without leaving a pic of janky anchor. 

Now HERE's a type of anchor that people have actually gotten seriously hurt by ... back on track!

“Extension” 

Garrett Hopkins wrote:

“Extension” 

always amazed by $200 in pro, but short $10 in soft goods.

Kyle Harding wrote:

Everyone knows the unwritten rule to this thread; no commenting without leaving a pic of janky anchor. 

another classic, tons of cordage, yet chained together in sketchy, shortened sections.

Slung the block on the right.  Later I heard rattling when I reached in to pull out the line.

Hope you left the little guy alone!

Professor Watermelon wrote:

Slung the block on the right.  Later I heard rattling when I reached in to pull out the line.

I know that guy! Heard he gives a good soft catch 

Not DL, but at the Winona Ice Park. Where there are already established anchors on the climbs. I think one can assume which group has to have 3 individual webbing strands to make the anchor “safe” 

Garrett Hopkins wrote:

Not DL, but at the Winona Ice Park. Where there are already established anchors on the climbs. I think one can assume which group has to have 3 individual webbing strands to make the anchor “safe” 

I've come to expect some good entertainment whenever someone pulls webbing from a pack.

Im late to posting this anchor that I saw at the top of CCC back in May but just... wow. I have no words. 

Should I have said something? I hate confrontation and i really dont like to tell people how to do their anchors.

Lauren Errichiello wrote:

Im late to posting this anchor that I saw at the top of CCC back in May but just... wow. I have no words. 

Should I have said something? I hate confrontation and i really dont like to tell people how to do their anchors.

I don't see 'imminent death' written on that one, probably woulda walked on by

The only thing wrong is the tri-loaded carabiner and the master point above instead of below the edge of the wall. Definitely still bomber enough. Otherwise, it’s actually creative and legit, given the lack of a long enough static rope. I like it. Thanks for sharing. 

Lauren Errichiello wrote:

Im late to posting this anchor that I saw at the top of CCC back in May but just... wow. I have no words. 

Should I have said something? I hate confrontation and i really dont like to tell people how to do their anchors.

They've for sure received some form of professional instruction. Someone should've told them to buy twice as much static rope lol

And come on ya'll there was a big CMC outing this past weekend. I KNOW someones got pictures of all the crazy toprope anchors from the East Rampart

Thanks for the info guys! I guess its not how I would ever do an anchor but good to know its not dangerous.

Lauren Errichiello wrote:

Thanks for the info guys! I guess its not how I would ever do an anchor but good to know its not dangerous.

Yeah, in fact it’s an ingenious way to save wear and tear, and minimize loads on your critical top rope static line, by transferring all the critical stress and abrasion to your disposable climbing rope, lol. 

Mark Pilate wrote:

Yeah, in fact it’s an ingenious way to save wear and tear, and minimize loads on your critical top rope static line, by transferring all the critical stress and abrasion to your disposable climbing rope, lol. 

Lol yes, that was my big worry. I learned the hard way that a surface could seem smooth but is in fact, not. See my static after 2 TRs. This could happen to their rope running over the edge like that with no redundancy to save them.