Palisades Traverse Beta

Fellow Alpine climbers, it's been a dream of mine to complete the Palisades Traverse. This year I found a partner and we are going to attack it August 10th. There isn't a whole lot as far as maps and beta. So I'm looking for any help I can get as far as camping and which side to start north or south. Thanks in advance, and I'm curious to know if anybody who's done it recently? Thanks tribe

In case you haven’t already seen these links:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/906203/Palisade-Traverse-Sierra-Nevadas-Fiver-14ers-in-a-day

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212187/Complete-Palisade-Traverse-first-winter-ascent

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/835934/Palisade-Traverse

When John & I did it in 1979 ,it was our second attempt . We had been blown off by a storm on Norman Clyde in 1978 . Finding Dawson and Eichorn's 1931 first ascent note on Bivouac Peak was  the highlight in 1978. I've received photos of our 1979 notes in registers several times and have enjoyed the grand  photos that have been posted over the years . I've never read of a woman climber on the full traverse and when I asked if any had ever done it on the Women's Forum my post was immediately deleted ! 

Are you asking for beta for the "Full" Palisades Traverse or the traverse of five 14ers (Sill to Tbolt)?

SirTobyThe3rd Mwrote:

Are you asking for beta for the "Full" Palisades Traverse or the traverse of five 14ers (Sill to Tbolt)?

Thunderbolt to Sill...anything would be great.  Thanks 

The book, “Climbing California’s Fourteeners” by Purcell and Burns would come in handy. That plus old fashioned route finding, and talking to others you meet up there should be enough. And a topo map. 

My partner and I did a 3 peak 'Thunderbolt-Starlight-N. Pal' traverse in a relaxed pace of 21.5 hours in August 2003. We left Sam Mack Meadows at 4:00am. Crampons and ice axes were necessary for the hike up North Palisade Glacier (icy at that time of day/year).  Carried a 40 M rope and a minimal trad rack of stoppers, a hex, one small cam, and a few slings of varying lengths including a longer length of webbing for wrapping/girth hitching horns and chockstones. Only used the rope twice along the ascent, if I remember right. I ended up free soloing a couple pitches, plus the Cockscomb and the Milkbottle, and then setting an anchor and belaying my partner up.  

We went to Thunderbolt Peak first: third class/5.9, 14,003’ then traversed the ridge in the SE direction.  I had a lot of fun trying to stay strictly on the ridge, doing a lot of unnecessary bouldering.  I almost paid for it when a very large boulder, the size of which I would not have guessed my 150 pounds would affect, teetered under me. We reached Starlight Peak: 5.4, 14,200’ around mid-day, and spent a half hour there, our longest break. Being cautious (and short) climbers, we set a rope on the Milk Bottle, but having done it, I would do it without a rope (if I get there again), as it's an easy boulder problem (VO?) if you find the line (on the N Pal side, I think). We lastly summited North Palisade: 5.6, 14,242’. We descended toward the U-Notch, reaching the edge at last light.  Rappelling the U-Notch to chimney pitch (5.6) in the dark felt long, tedious (drawback of 40 M rope), and risky due to rockfall (helmets for sure).  We were glad the ice, which was thawing during the day, was refreezing by the time we got there.  Descending the glacier was fast and easy by comparison, and soon enough we were down on the use trail, on the home stretch, on legs getting 'rubbery'.  Back at base camp 1:30am.  All and all very enjoyable and satisfying. 

The biggest challenge was staying hydrated, so take the opportunities to collect glacial melt and drink up when you can. Wonderful, clean, solid, granite from start to finish (I live in Oregon now, and climb on volcanic choss and moss... took a lead fall yesterday when a hold broke... can't take nothin' for granted/granite here).  Incidentally, we had done the Swiss Arete 5.7 (Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 6 pitches, Grade II) up Mt. Sill: 14,153’ to V-Notch to Polemonium Peak: fourth class, 14.080’, a couple days prior as a 'warm up', which served us well on the 'three 14'ers in a day' adventure.

Our 'Thunderbolt-Starlight-N. Pal' traverse was a highlight of my mountaineering life.  I highly recommend it.

Shandin O.

'Riff-Raff Climbing Crew'

P.S. I'm writing this 22 years later from memory, so take it as a story, not as beta.

P.S.S. I'm still dreaming of completing California's 14,000 footers.  I'm in the Mountain Project partner finder. If you'd like to team up, please contact me,

I did the traverse from S-N recently, we hiked in, climbed the Swiss Arete, bivied on the ridge between sill and Polenium, then continued the traverse the next day and descended via the underhill colouir and hiked out. All in all I thought this was a good way to do the traverse since it allowed us to spend a night on the ridge which was spectacular. However, I think this took a lot longer than going N->S would have since the swiss arete is more difficult (you could climb up the normal descent however). I can't give any beta on the normal Thunderbolt descent/scramble. 

I just did it, if you have any specific questions, reach out.