Grand Teton Conditions on Easy Routes

Sunday June 29

Calm wind, perfect summer weather in afternoon. None camping at the Lower Saddle or seen upon arrival. We arrived late (noon at Upper Saddle). At least one party was on the Complete Exum and at least one hit the Upper Exum. Several were on the Owen-Spalding including soloing parties. The OS was cold in the morning according to others, and backed up with a half dozen climbers at the Upper Saddle when we arrived at noon. Icy conditions slowed down some parties. One party turned around due to discomfort with the ice.

Exum ridge: from Wall Street to summit, the route is in great shape with a few patches of snow and ice but easy to avoid (like, Wind Tunnel area). This information was shared with us by climbers on the ridge.

Owen-Spalding: The verglas, snow, icy snow and wet rock are all avoidable above the Upper Saddle for stronger climbers except possibly a patch of snow directly below the summit. Belly Roll and Crawl were dry, Double Chimney had streamers of verglas at the start of second entrance. The DC's first entrance was pretty dry. The reasonably efficient option to avoid all ice and snow in the DC is to use the 2nd entrance (carefully) and run up the western side of the flake that runs above the DC's tunnel variation (plugged with snow). Ice is in the DC's Open-V but not at the entrance to it so it's "easy" to run up the flake's western edge and then head east to the Owen Chimney once on top.

The Owen Chimney had its usual collection of snow at its base and some patches of ice in the chimney. You can avoid it by taking the Catwalk which was 99.9% dry on Sunday: take the direct line from the Double Chimney's exit. The Owen Chimney was soloed without any special gear as was the entire climb in road running shoes. Weaker climbers may want better traction. Some parties had axe and crampons but not all.

Everything else on the OS was easy to manage but keep an eye out for small patches of verglas.

There are still small patches of snow crossings on the approach. We used hiking poles to manage the snow crossings (icy in morning, slushy in afternoon). You may want an ice axe.  Use the Briggs Slab and Black Rock Chimney area along the Central Rib to reach the Upper Saddle. Some snow is encountered between the saddles, easy to manage close to the Central Rib. Avoid the snow in the drainages.

The summer trail is in use. The fixed rope area at the lower saddle's headwall is pretty wet with some dry rock mixed in. And there is unstable snow just below it. Water undercuts the snow. Shortcuts above the caves camping zone are being used to avoid snow on the lower switchbacks. These are typical snow hazards for the end of June. Snow crossings start at the first boulder field by the Platforms camping zone.

Lots of snow on the approach to the Middle Teton's south col.

Conditions can change quickly but this should be good for Monday and Tuesday. Chance of showers in forecast for several days starting Wednesday.

Any more recent reports on the OS? 

New snow and ice was on the Grand on Thursday 7/17. It was getting climbed by the guides and a few hardy climbers. The Exum Ridge was fine. The sunshine was burning it early. The OS was a mix of conditions. The weather and conditions are in flux so don't expect things to stay any one way for too long. The wind stopped many private parties from climbing.

The OS is 99.9% dry. A small collection of Verglas was at the very top of Owen Chimney late morning. Probably burned off. Floor of tunnel variation in Double Chimney is still icy but passable - plenty of other options. Not very much wet rock on OS route. Typical water west side of Needle, especially as day warms. 

In regards to the OS, it is often cold in the early morning and some climbers are unprepared for that. It has also been backed up early in the morning. As a "beginner" route, climbers are often moving slowly so keep that in mind and be patient or try another route or time. All parties should avoid the more difficult 1st entrance of the Double Chimney if the OS is backed up unless you're soloing or you're a quick, strong climber. Also, a proper examination of the weather forecast can often tell you that a later and warmer start is possible for some parties. Often less busy. Afternoon and evening showers are often missing from a morning forecast. Conditions can change quickly but hot days are ahead into next week. 

Complete XM is fine, Middle SW Couloir is Fine, Italian Cracks on North Ridge is fine. Petzoldt is fine.

Anybody been on the East Ridge of Mount Owen? Does the Koven Couloir have snow or is it dry? Ice axe recommended?