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Show us your home-brew Petzl Connect-Adjust (or other) setup

Brocky · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0

I did a full length bury with some poly/technora cover only, and had a pull test done, and it broke at the strength of a single strand.  It did break at a further distance from the eye than most splices.  My theory is the outer cover helps for a short distance, the “core” is stretched out, and the “cover” is expanded and compressed.  When it gets loaded, the core already stretched out more than cover will break, with the cover still being able to stretch more, and not helping anymore.

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
Ryan Lynchwrote:

Also, can you link me to the Edelrid video you're talking about?

I'd think the strength would be limited by the eye. 

https://youtu.be/p13Rd8sh1o4?si=hmfI8FZsL8y7T0sF

Brocky · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0
that guy named sebwrote:

I'd think the strength would be limited by the eye. 

https://youtu.be/p13Rd8sh1o4?si=hmfI8FZsL8y7T0sF

The eye is like a loop, those break at 150-160% of the ropes strength.

The video is only testing one part of the Class I Double Braid splice. That crossover, in a regular splice, is being compressed by the cover, as well as sitting next to additional core, further expanding the cover, increasing compression.

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
Brockywrote:

The eye is like a loop, those break at 150-160% of the ropes strength.

How is an eye tested if they can't be ringloaded? Or is it fine with X type of splice? 

Brocky · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0

Why ring load test, it’s not used like that?  Typically pulled end to end, more like real use.  A Class I Double Braid splice requires both the cover and core to work together, Class II usually just relies on the core for the strength.  Their splices are designed accordingly. 

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
Brockywrote:

Why ring load test, it’s not used like that?  Typically pulled end to end, more like real use.  A Class I Double Braid splice requires both the cover and core to work together, Class II usually just relies on the core for the strength.  Their splices are designed accordingly. 

I thought you meant the loops of a spliced eye would reach 160% but I see now you must have meant a spliced eye would be similar to a loop (which is what i thought. 

Go into the comments of the vid there is a good comment left by a samson employee regarding splicing and when it breaks in the taper vs breaking in the eye. 

Ryan Lynch · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 0

FWIW, I meant testing the line strength, in isolation, with no splice... Literally just one piece of cord, slid up the inside of another, with both ends wrapped on large diameter bollards. Not really a practical test -- just curious about what happens to the line strength that way.

Brocky · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0
Ryan Lynchwrote:

FWIW, I meant testing the line strength, in isolation, with no splice... Literally just one piece of cord, slid up the inside of another, with both ends wrapped on large diameter bollards. Not really a practical test -- just curious about what happens to the line strength that way.

Right, that is what my post addressed, I think it will break at it’s rated break strength, not double.

Max R · · Bend · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 292

Bit of a thread grave dig, but i’m stoked on my new setup. These are Amazon knock offs of the connect clamp. Nearly identical to the petzls. Allegedly rated to 9kn. Using 8.5mm beal opera, cloved to a petzl cock ring. Super smooth releasing. Probably going to put some cord through the eyes.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0GH7TZS5Y?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title




NateC · · Utah · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 1

My 8.1mm Ice Line that I've been using on my modified connect adjust needed replaced. I had this 6mm Imlay Canyon Gear pull cord laying around and decided to try it. It's working great so far in tests hanging from a squat rack. Haven't taken it outside yet to test for real. I decided to reinforce the tie in loop with some webbing I had laying around because my old cord saw a lot of abrasion there.

Cosmic Hotdog · · California · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 432

Copied the idea from Tanner Wanish who posted about it elsewhere but I've adopted the Maxim 5.5mm 5mm Tech Cord + Petzl Connect Adjust metal piece combo. Tied with a fig 8 on one end and a barrel knot as a stopper on the other. 

Hasn't slipped once, super low bulk and weighs next to nothing. An added plus is the concerned looks I get from people when I use it. I've now replaced my adjustable tethers for aid climbing with the above setup as well.

EJN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 263

Just FYI, Imlay pull cord isn't super strong. It's fully polyester, so it's essentially totally static, and its breaking strength is ~9.5kn without knots. Probably fine for an aid daisy, but maybe not great as a sole connection point, IMHO.

NateCwrote:

My 8.1mm Ice Line that I've been using on my modified connect adjust needed replaced. I had this 6mm Imlay Canyon Gear pull cord laying around and decided to try it. It's working great so far in tests hanging from a squat rack. Haven't taken it outside yet to test for real. I decided to reinforce the tie in loop with some webbing I had laying around because my old cord saw a lot of abrasion there.

Alex Fletcher · · Las Vegas · Joined May 2016 · Points: 252
Cosmic Hotdogwrote:

Copied the idea from Tanner Wanish who posted about it elsewhere but I've adopted the Maxim 5.5mm Tech Cord + Petzl Connect Adjust metal piece combo. Tied with a fig 8 on one end and a barrel knot as a stopper on the other. 

Hasn't slipped once, super low bulk and weighs next to nothing. An added plus is the concerned looks I get from people when I use it. I've now replaced my adjustable tethers for aid climbing with the above setup as well.

Asking to clarify, are you saying you use a single strand of 5.5mm cord as your personal life supporting tether?

And just incase I may have misread, you’re also saying that other people being concerned for your life is a bonus of using the aforementioned critical life safety system?

NateC · · Utah · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 1
EJNwrote:

Just FYI, Imlay pull cord isn't super strong. It's fully polyester, so it's essentially totally static, and its breaking strength is ~9.5kn without knots. Probably fine for an aid daisy, but maybe not great as a sole connection point, IMHO.

Thanks for the heads up on that. I thought that I had remembered it closer 12kn, but just looked at their website and it appears you're correct. It was a decent proof for me that cord this small can work, but I'll probably buy something stronger now.

Big Red · · Seattle · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 1,201

I'm not usually the paranoid one about gear but I agree that using sub 7mm cord gives me the willies for a singular connection point, no matter what it's rated to. Something about the nonlinear relationship of diameter to abrasion resistance makes the weight savings not worth it I guess.

PWZ · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 0
Alex Fletcherwrote:

And just incase I may have misread, you’re also saying that other people being concerned for your life is a bonus of using the aforementioned critical life safety system?

Have you never experienced the sheer joy of screwing with the minders of other people's business?

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
Alex Fletcherwrote:

Asking to clarify, are you saying you use a single strand of 5.5mm cord as your personal life supporting tether?

And just incase I may have misread, you’re also saying that other people being concerned for your life is a bonus of using the aforementioned critical life safety system?

9kn is fine for bodyweight.

Caleb Hils · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2020 · Points: 0
that guy named sebwrote:

9kn is fine for bodyweight.

But any fall on it could provide results much different than expected out of something like this, look at some of how not 2’s drop tower tests and a tiny fall can explode static lines with ease :/

Cole Ing · · CA · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 181

Simply don't ever put yourself in a position where you can take a factor 2 fall onto your static tether.  IE don't climb above your anchor while tethered.  If you don't do it, it's not a situation you need to worry about.

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
Caleb Hilswrote:

But any fall on it could provide results much different than expected out of something like this, look at some of how not 2’s drop tower tests and a tiny fall can explode static lines with ease :/

Find me a single report of a PAS failing. I've tried, they don't exist. Humans are essentially giant bags of water and diacipate force very well. People are taking high fall factor whips onto adjusts of various cord diameters while aid climbing(see Oliver tipets vids) 

As you mentioned hownot2

https://youtu.be/nr3YBDnOI8Q?si=uW0PAHWAxkuskD2t

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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