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What’s the climbing like in the Tetons?

Original Post
Will Barrett · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2020 · Points: 15

I’m planning a climbing trip to the Tetons soon (never been to Wyoming), and I was wondering how you would characterize the “typical” climbing out there. Splitter cracks, face climbing, juggy, slopey, steep, slabby, etc…?

Obviously in an area as big as the Tetons, there’s a huge amount of variety, even pitch to pitch on some longer routes, but I’m just trying to get a general idea of what to expect. Specifically, I’m looking at the Lower Exum/Full Exum and routes on Symmetry Spire. On those routes when it says follow the crack, are those lines usually splitter cracks that require lots of pure hand/foot jamming? Or are you mostly climbing holds in/around the crack feature and using the crack to place protection? An even mix of both?

Sorry for such a broad question, just trying to better prepare myself. Thanks in advance!

Mtn Cat · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 21

I'd say it tends to be more like face climbing around cracks while placing protection in them, though you will occasionally need to jam. There are a few pitches here and there with splitter cracks that you'll need real crack technique for, but those sections tend to be relatively short.

For example: Crux Pitch of Lower Exum   Crux Pitch of Upper   Irene's Arete

If I really had to characterize most of the climbing in the Tetons, though, it would be "a lot of hiking for a bit of climbing". Make sure you're in shape to do long approaches at elevation with significant vert. The routes will make you work for them, but they're worth it.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Wyoming, Montana, Dakotas
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