Help me pick gear

As the title says, I need help picking out gear as I want to get into outdoor climbing. I know a guy who climbed about 30 years ago, and he's been advising me on what I would need. He said he would bring me outside to show me how to set it up. But I think his way of thinking might be a little old school. He said to never trust pre-placed anchors, but in all the videos online, everyone is using the anchors set up on the route. He said he would rather opt for a natural anchor, such as a tree or boulder. 

So that brings me to the first question. Should I be using the pre-placed anchors out there?

Now, when it comes to gear, he said he would use webbing for the anchor lines, and maybe back then, that was the only affordable thing. In a lot of the videos I see on setting up natural anchors, people are using static rope. 

What do you guys recommend using for an anchor line? 

Here is what I currently have:

• Harness 
• 9.8 Rope
• Neox

What I am planning to get:

• 6 Pack Quick Draw 
• 2 x 3 Pack of Locking Carabiners
• 120cm sling
• Gridlock screwgate carabiner

What can I potentially add/remove from my list?

If you just want to go sport climbing I'd double up on your quick draws and get two lockers with an optional sling. That's all you need to climb and clean a lot of routes.

Anyone who should be teaching you about climbing will have more draws or other equipment if needed. 

30 years ago is the 90s. This person in your life sounds like they were climbing in the 1890s. 

Bolts are generally bomber unless they look obviously in bad shape, I have never thought twice about using a bolted anchor, and 2 bolts is redundant anyway.

I always set up TR anchors with either 

1) a 120 cm sling for overhand masterpoint or sliding X

2) quad length sling or cordelette for a quad anchor

3) two opposite and opposed quick draws if the bolts are close enough

For 1 and 2, you shouldn't need more than 1 locking carabiner for the masterpoint (specifically a big HMS is nice) and non lockers for each bolt is commonly acceptable. I also have 1 dedicated locker for my belay device (I like auto locking), 1 locker for my PAS (for cleaning an anchor if it has rap rings and not mussy hooks/carabiners), and 1 locker for the figure 8 on a bight for that same cleaning process.

If you want to sport climb then 12-14 quick draws is a good starting number, maybe more depending on the length of the route or less if your partners have their own.

I always have a rappel device w/ locker and prusik on me as well, but I don't know if I have ever used that for single pitch sport, lowering is almost always better than rapping.

And don't forget a helmet!

Nick Ebanks wrote:

If you just want to go sport climbing I'd double up on your quick draws and get two lockers with an optional sling. That's all you need to climb and clean a lot of routes.

Anyone who should be teaching you about climbing will have more draws or other equipment if needed. 

30 years ago is the 90s. This person in your life sounds like they were climbing in the 1890s. 

LMAO yeah when I was hearing him say don't trust the anchors I was like what do you mean they are for the most part bolted by professional 

Ronan Shaffer wrote:

Bolts are generally bomber unless they look obviously in bad shape, I have never thought twice about using a bolted anchor, and 2 bolts is redundant anyway.

I always set up TR anchors with either 

1) a 120 cm sling for overhand masterpoint or sliding X

2) quad length sling or cordelette for a quad anchor

3) two opposite and opposed quick draws if the bolts are close enough

For 1 and 2, you shouldn't need more than 1 locking carabiner for the masterpoint (specifically a big HMS is nice) and non lockers for each bolt is commonly acceptable. I also have 1 dedicated locker for my belay device (I like auto locking), 1 locker for my PAS (for cleaning an anchor if it has rap rings and not mussy hooks/carabiners), and 1 locker for the figure 8 on a bight for that same cleaning process.

If you want to sport climb then 12-14 quick draws is a good starting number, maybe more depending on the length of the route or less if your partners have their own.

I always have a rappel device w/ locker and prusik on me as well, but I don't know if I have ever used that for single pitch sport, lowering is almost always better than rapping.

And don't forget a helmet!

Thanks for the help. So say I were to use option 3 which involves using the quick draws should I swap the masterpoint carbineers to locking carbineers or as long as they are opposing they should be fine? Also a second question regarding the rappel device. So I right now have the Neox. Should I be getting a second device which solely focuses on rappelling as I was just planning on rappelling using the Neox.

Nathaniel Bar wrote:

LMAO yeah when I was hearing him say don't trust the anchors I was like what do you mean they are for the most part bolted by professional 

Yeah about that…lots of rogue bolters out there. There is no professional certification. 

Nathaniel Bar wrote:

LMAO yeah when I was hearing him say don't trust the anchors I was like what do you mean they are for the most part bolted by professional 

Pretty much nobody gets paid to develop climbs, it’s mostly passionate climbers donating their time and money. But yeah bolted anchors are bomber. 

Nathaniel Bar wrote:

Thanks for the help. So say I were to use option 3 which involves using the quick draws should I swap the masterpoint carbineers to locking carbineers or as long as they are opposing they should be fine? Also a second question regarding the rappel device. So I right now have the Neox. Should I be getting a second device which solely focuses on rappelling as I was just planning on rappelling using the Neox.

You can, it’s not necessary but if you or your partner feels better than go for it. I’ve used a QD with lockers on either side of the dogbone too.

With the Neox you would only be able to rappel on a single strand, so simulrap or biner block with tagline or a second rope. Those are both more advanced techniques that are considered to be somewhat higher risk. An ATC is more versatile and straightforward and requires less gear. I wouldn’t say you need one quite yet if you are just getting started with single pitch stuff though.

Ronan Shaffer wrote:

Pretty much nobody gets paid to develop climbs, it’s mostly passionate climbers donating their time and money. But yeah bolted anchors are bomber. 

Should I still trust the preplaced bolt in anchors then?

Nathaniel Bar wrote:

Should I still trust the preplaced bolt in anchors then?

As a general rule, yes. 

Nathaniel Bar wrote:

Should I still trust the preplaced bolt in anchors then?

At 99% of sport crags (as opposed to a trad area with bolted anchors), you won't really have any other choice.

Rapping from the anchor is usually riskier than lowering. And AFAIK lowering is the standard at most sport crags. Depends on what's on the bolts though, and there are things you can do* to minimize wear on the resident hardware (which is generally the only argument against lowering).

* None of which should be explained over the internet. As the tags on gear say: See Qualified Instruction.  (Editorial - it doesn't sound like your old timer buddy is a good source for the latest anchor management tricks)

I will second that everyone recommends that you have 12-14 quick draws for sport climbing. This is the list that I like to give out to new sport climbers since I feel it meets a little more than the bare minimum for one person's rack.

• Harness (1 per person)
• Shoes
• belay/ rappel device with locking carabiner (1 per person)
• 60cm slings for extended draws and person tether to clean routes (2-4)
• 120cm slings for top rope anchors/ rappel extensions (1-2)
• Locking carabiners, HMS style are great for anywhere the rope runs through and offset D are great for general use (4-6)
• Non-locking carabiners (4-6)
• Prussik cord for rappelling (1 per person)
• 60 or 70 meter rope (depends on where you plan to climb)
• Climbing helmet (1 per person)

In this era of climbing it is generally safe to trust hardware that has been installed on a route. I wills stress that it is also important to be able to identify bad bolts or unsafe anchors before you use them to keep yourself sage. Here is a link to the American Alpine Institute's guide to inspecting bolts. http://blog.alpineinstitute.com/2020/04/a-climbers-guide-to-checking-bolt.html

To address the issue of setting up top rope anchors with webbing or static rope, the industry has moved away from webbing in favor or static rope. Webbing is more prone to abrasion and damage then static rope is and requires a bit more knowledge to utilize safely as compared to static rope, in my opinion. I will also stress that you need to be aware of land access rules when going out climbing. There are often times where there is private ownership of land at the top of cliffs but them rock face is free to climb. Do not trespass on private land to set up top rope anchors if you are unsure of the access rules for a climbing area. Consult MP or your local climber's coalition to learn about access rules for different places. The tops of cliffs are also fragile places and can often be dangerous. If there are bolted anchors for your climbs, use them instead of putting wear on the cliff edge and trees above the cliff.

I am not sure where you live but I suggest seeking qualified instruction to learn about climbing. Your mentor may be a great person and knowledgeable but climbing has changed a lot since the 90's and professional guides are up to date on modern techniques and ethics for the industry and your local climbing areas.

Thomas Worsham wrote:

I will second that everyone recommends that you have 12-14 quick draws for sport climbing. This is the list that I like to give out to new sport climbers since I feel it meets a little more than the bare minimum for one person's rack.

• Harness (1 per person)
• Shoes
• belay/ rappel device with locking carabiner (1 per person)
• 60cm slings for extended draws and person tether to clean routes (2-4)
• 120cm slings for top rope anchors/ rappel extensions (1-2)
• Locking carabiners, HMS style are great for anywhere the rope runs through and offset D are great for general use (4-6)
• Non-locking carabiners (4-6)
• Prussik cord for rappelling (1 per person)
• 60 or 70 meter rope (depends on where you plan to climb)
• Climbing helmet (1 per person)

In this era of climbing it is generally safe to trust hardware that has been installed on a route. I wills stress that it is also important to be able to identify bad bolts or unsafe anchors before you use them to keep yourself sage. Here is a link to the American Alpine Institute's guide to inspecting bolts. http://blog.alpineinstitute.com/2020/04/a-climbers-guide-to-checking-bolt.html

To address the issue of setting up top rope anchors with webbing or static rope, the industry has moved away from webbing in favor or static rope. Webbing is more prone to abrasion and damage then static rope is and requires a bit more knowledge to utilize safely as compared to static rope, in my opinion. I will also stress that you need to be aware of land access rules when going out climbing. There are often times where there is private ownership of land at the top of cliffs but them rock face is free to climb. Do not trespass on private land to set up top rope anchors if you are unsure of the access rules for a climbing area. Consult MP or your local climber's coalition to learn about access rules for different places. The tops of cliffs are also fragile places and can often be dangerous. If there are bolted anchors for your climbs, use them instead of putting wear on the cliff edge and trees above the cliff.

I am not sure where you live but I suggest seeking qualified instruction to learn about climbing. Your mentor may be a great person and knowledgeable but climbing has changed a lot since the 90's and professional guides are up to date on modern techniques and ethics for the industry and your local climbing areas.

Thank you for this post; it contains a lot of great information that you have provided for me.