Pulley-friendly Wild Iris / Lander 12+/13- route advice?

I'm prepping for my third trip to Lander, at the end of July this year. Unfortunately in April I suffered a pretty bad left ring finger A2 pulley tear, so I've been in rehab mode and am only just getting back to slightly harder climbing, and I think for the rest of the year I'll be relegated to less bouldery more endurance-y routes.

Obviously Wild Iris isn't the best place for this, but I've got the trip booked and I'm excited to show my partner Lander-area climbing, so I'm keeping it.

Anyhow, I'm planning out my route goals and I'm curious if anyone has any suggestions for great 12+ / 13- routes that are (a) not tweaky for the left hand (b) ideally more enduro than power oriented. Most of the stuff I've tried in that range (e.g. Silverbelly, When I was a Young Girl) feels like there's no way it'll be attemptable without risking reinjury, but I'd love to find something to try hard on. Also open to non-Wild Iris areas.

Finger injuries must be common given the pockets...anyone have any advice on finger friendly climbs?

Josh S wrote:

I'm prepping for my third trip to Lander, at the end of July this year. Unfortunately in April I suffered a pretty bad left ring finger A2 pulley tear, so I've been in rehab mode and am only just getting back to slightly harder climbing, and I think for the rest of the year I'll be relegated to less bouldery more endurance-y routes.

Obviously Wild Iris isn't the best place for this, but I've got the trip booked and I'm excited to show my partner Lander-area climbing, so I'm keeping it.

Anyhow, I'm planning out my route goals and I'm curious if anyone has any suggestions for great 12+ / 13- routes that are (a) not tweaky for the left hand (b) ideally more enduro than power oriented. Most of the stuff I've tried in that range (e.g. Silverbelly, When I was a Young Girl) feels like there's no way it'll be attemptable without risking reinjury, but I'd love to find something to try hard on. Also open to non-Wild Iris areas.

Finger injuries must be common given the pockets...anyone have any advice on finger friendly climbs?

The Sinks granite has some pumpy routes that are less fingery than the majority of Iris. It gets afternoon shade and is great when the high in town is 80-82 degrees or less that day. Foundation might be a good place to start. 

At Iris, it depends if you consider deep two finger pockets tweaky. If a jug pocket is tweaky, then you might find yourself pretty hosed at that grade range. If you think you can handle juggy two finger pockets, then Poker Face Alice, American Beauty, Two Kinds of Justice, Drinking Dry Clouds, Bobcat Logic, and Calamity Jane might fit the bill. Just look for roofs or steeps. 

If the river is low enough for your vehicle by the end of July, then check out The Strawberry Roan. Generally larger holds than Iris. Sweat Lodge might also work for you.

Matt Miccioli wrote:

The Sinks granite has some pumpy routes that are less fingery than the majority of Iris. It gets afternoon shade and is great when the high in town is 80 degrees or less that day. Foundations might be a good place to start. 

At Iris, it depends if you consider deep two finger pockets tweaky. If a jug pocket is tweaky, then you might find yourself pretty hosed at that grade range. If you think you can handle juggy two finger pockets, then Poker Face Alice, American Beauty, Two Kinds of Justice, Drinking Dry Clouds, Bobcat Logic, Calamity Jane all might fit the bill. Just look for roofs or steeps. 

If the river is low enough for your vehicle by the end of July, then check out The Strawberry Roan. Generally larger holds than Iris. Sweat Lodge might also work for you.

Cool thanks! Have driven through the Sinks granite but never climbed there, and have never been to the Roan or Sweat Lodge, so great suggestions all around. I think sinker two fingers will be fine, especially if I can front-2 them.