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Climbing at Promontory - How do conditions work there?

Original Post
JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

Headed to the Redwood Coast next week and planning to spend a few days at Promontory. Looking to try a few routes on the main wall, especially Redwood Burl. Seeking conditions and time-of-day advice. When in the day is it best to climb there this time of year? In the morning in the shade (but maybe still foggy/damp?) or in the afternoon with the sun drying things out? I'm quite used to the climbing conditions game in the Sierra, but this whole coast thing is baffling to me.

Also, what time does the sun hit the main wall in June?

Ronan Shaffer · · Reno, NV · Joined Mar 2023 · Points: 0

Climbed there in May a couple years ago - cool, damp, cloudy all day, didn't really seem like time of day mattered too much. Maybe it's different in June but I would imagine it never gets too hot and chilly mornings are more the issue. Coastal start for the win! I would guess the main wall starts getting sun in the early afternoon

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
Ronan Shafferwrote:

Climbed there in May a couple years ago - cool, damp, cloudy all day, didn't really seem like time of day mattered too much. 

I've been there once before, in the fall, with similar conditions -  dense fog all day, time of day didn't really matter. Though I also see photos of it sunny there, so presumably that happens some of the time? Not sure if sun would be good or bad there ...  The coast confuses me. 

Dylan Easterling · · Fort Jones, CA · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 505

Definitely reach out to Evan Wisheropp for good conditions specific beta, but I would suggest checking a tide table to hit low tide for approaching and deproaching. That's how I have always planned my days out there, but it is doable at high tide but once you have to carry a dog down a boulder you kinda tend to start to avoid it lol.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

Reporting back to answer my own question.  Shade in the morning was nice. In June the crag still had shade at 2 pm when we left, due to steepness. Could get a bit warm once the sun hit? Low tide was nice for getting around the approach rock.

Aaron Altshuler · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2019 · Points: 0

Thanks for the great beta! I am heading that way next week, stoked to check this crag out.... Quick question, is it dog friendly? Just wanted to make sure since it is technically part of the Redwood parks, I think.

David S · · California · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 10
Aaron Altshulerwrote:

Thanks for the great beta! I am heading that way next week, stoked to check this crag out.... Quick question, is it dog friendly? Just wanted to make sure since it is technically part of the Redwood parks, I think.

It's a very small spot; most routes get belayed from within arms' distance of each other.  You'll need a practical way to keep your dog out of the way of other belayers there.

Aaron Altshuler · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2019 · Points: 0

Thanks David! We will be a group of 3 so we would have someone who can take care of the dog at all times, appreciate it!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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