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Fixing Lines at Tahquitz + Suicide?

Original Post
Mad Farm · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0

Hi! Does anyone know any good lines to throw up a fixed line on to micro around at Tahquitz and Suicide? Looking to get some more time in out there on weekdays and micro usually a good weekday move! Thanks so much!

Cosmic Hotdog · · California · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 432

What grades are you looking for? Crack? Slab? 

Do you need to be able to walk around to the top to set up the line or do you know how to lead rope solo and/or aid solo?

Mad Farm · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0
Cosmic Hotdogwrote:

What grades are you looking for? Crack? Slab? 

Do you need to be able to walk around to the top to set up the line or do you know how to lead rope solo and/or aid solo?

Down for whatever grades up to 5.12! I haven't done any lead or aid soloing - but could be learnable. But if there is anything walkable that would be rad! 

jt newgard · · San Diego, CA · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 461

Suicide would be way better for this, with Flower of High Rank and Etude being obvious choices. I'm quite partial to the unloved LeDent Pinnacle myself. A bit tricky to find, but you can walk down from the top and throw a rope down on Jammit (has a bolted anchor) or Munge Dihedral (wrap rope around big boulder).

Alternatively you could climb with retired folks on weekdays! 

Mad Farm · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0
jt newgardwrote:

Suicide would be way better for this, with Flower of High Rank and Etude being obvious choices. I'm quite partial to the unloved LeDent Pinnacle myself. A bit tricky to find, but you can walk down from the top and throw a rope down on Jammit (has a bolted anchor) or Munge Dihedral (wrap rope around big boulder).

Alternatively you could climb with retired folks on weekdays! 

I am going to look into these! Always up for partners too during the week!   

Cosmic Hotdog · · California · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 432

Madeline - JT's advice is solid. For some additional detail to help you out: Flower of High Rank and Etude are on the Northeast Buttress which is located 5-10 minutes to climber's right of where the approach trail takes you. If you're looking up at Flower of High Rank, you want to walk climber's right and then hug around the base of the rock to the left and take the trail up to the top. From the top you can set up a TR on Flower, you could also set one on P2 of Yours and P2 of Graham Crackers (both on the North face which is climber's right of Flower). Those are easy routes but still a fun quick romp while you're up there. 

Another option: Buttress of Cracks - Right side has routes that can be TR'ed as well. Either scramble the 5.2 gully to the left or walk around climber's right up a 3rd class scramble to set up TRs above Spatula and Low Pressure.

tom donnelly · · san diego · Joined Aug 2002 · Points: 405

Flower & Etude are also popular with lead climbers esp on weekends.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,093

weeping wall is really good for this. tie a couple ropes together and you can bang out a lot of climbing.

Cosmic Hotdog · · California · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 432
slimwrote:

weeping wall is really good for this. tie a couple ropes together and you can bang out a lot of climbing.

Slim, you're talking TRS right? Is the approach to get up top of the Weeping Wall to put up a TR best done from climber's left or climber's right? That's one area at Suicide that I haven't rope solo'ed yet

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,093

i have always gone up the right side, past FOHR, etc.  pretty straight forward for the most part.  the routes that are on climber's left and the center of the wall are a bit more straight forward to get to.  the ones on climber's right are a little more involved, but not too bad.  might be a bit hot this time of year though.  on a nice cool day it is pretty sweet to link those into long monster pitches. your arms won't get pumped, but your toes might!

Cosmic Hotdog · · California · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 432

Interesting, I'd have never thought to go up that far right side and just keep walking past the top of Flower, etc. until you're above the Weeping Wall but that makes sense. Thanks for the insight, I appreciate it

x15x15 · · Use Ignore Button · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 280
Cosmic Hotdogwrote:

Interesting, I'd have never thought to go up that far right side and just keep walking past the top of Flower, etc. until you're above the Weeping Wall but that makes sense. Thanks for the insight, I appreciate it

In my younger motivated days, I'd hike Deer Springs Trail to Suicide Summit. I know, stupid, but i just wanted the exercise. Anyway, I'd TRS mega pitches once I at Suicide. From Le Dent Pinnacle all the way to N Face. Once you figure it out, yer good to GO!

Cosmic Hotdog · · California · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 432
x15x15wrote:

In my younger motivated days, I'd hike Deer Springs Trail to Suicide Summit. I know, stupid, but i just wanted the exercise. Anyway, I'd TRS mega pitches once I at Suicide. From Le Dent Pinnacle all the way to N Face. Once you figure it out, yer good to GO!

It's funny because I honestly didn't even conceive that you could do it that way but seeing how you guys go about reaching the less obvious stuff from the top is such a "oh, duh!" moment. I was just out at Suicide last weekend doing some LRS and TRS, including on Flower and mentally it never even crossed my mind to keep hiking past the top of flower to access all the stuff in between N Face and where the approach trail puts you. 

This is a game changer and now I'm excited to go back and give this a shot. I really appreciate you guys

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,093

Yeah, once you get up there, figure out a couple top access points, the sun/shade thing you can get an el cap day in pretty easily. I think my record is 36 pitches in a day. It's pretty crazy, there is usually almost nobody up there. Pretty peaceful.

apogee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 0

Sssssshhhhh……

Gumby boy king · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 547

Green arch is fun if you can get morning shade. 80m gets you all the way to the base

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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