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Dolomites/Swiss Alps in september

Original Post
Joe Swandawg · · Belgium · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 0

I would love to hear any good suggestions/experiences for multi pitch trad climbing/scrambles/adventures 5.10 and under in the Dolomites and Swiss alps. Will be there for 3 weeks in September and want to make the most of our short time there.


what are some unforgettable climbs/areas that usually do not require snow/ice gear that you can recommend  for September? I will have a double rack and 70m rope. 

Tim Wolfe · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 3,540

For Dolomites you only need single rack plus threads. Threads are a must for many routes and make up a significant portion of your protection including the belays on many trad routes. No need for 70 meter rope though it’s fine- just most pitches are 40 meters and it’s a pain to haul up lots of loose rope. I suggest twin 60 meters for safety in bailing in bad weather and reducing rope drag by clipping ropes independently on traverses and wandering pitches. Go to this website Dolomites section for must do routes. Hard to go wrong if you choose what fits your preferences. Early September will be fine. Luck with the weather will determine if later September works. Depends on when the snow starts. You can easily burn all three weeks here and only need another lifetime to finish up on the most do routes you didn’t have time for. 

old5ten · · Sunny Slopes + Berkeley, CA · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 5,831
Joe Swandawg wrote:

I would love to hear any good suggestions/experiences for multi pitch trad climbing/scrambles/adventures 5.10 and under in the Dolomites and Swiss alps. Will be there for 3 weeks in September and want to make the most of our short time there.


what are some unforgettable climbs/areas that usually do not require snow/ice gear that you can recommend  for September? I will have a double rack and 70m rope. 

Vajolet Towers - Delagokante is one of the most memorable climbs i've ever done.  the climbing is good (imho, not excellent), but the position on the arete is simply amazing - P2 view.  you step around the corner onto the arete and have endless air below you.

note that a couple of days after we climbed that route (in early september) there was significant snow fall and our dolomite days were over.  not much of a problem, as we were on the southern end of the dolomites (rosengarten) in st. zyprian and there were plenty of crags just down the hill near bozen, but if you're located somewhere more central you have a much harder time to get in and out from your base.  it sounds pretty simple and obvious, but i always recommend having options in terms of weather, temperature, etc. ;-)

we had a single 70m rope, not ideal for long dolomites routes, but quite nice for the cragging we did.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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