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Please enlighten me about the sacredness of Green A slab.

Original Post
zoso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 783

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/201008480/axe-wound

Feels like I'll get roasted for this but so be it. 

I know there's history of a sport route left of Green A that got chopped a long time ago and that the Ruckman's said, "The face should be left as-is."  And of course, I'm not a fan of grid bolting nor does anyone want sport routes too close to trad lines.  But, like the thread title says, please educate me on the matter.  Just curious. 

Dirtbag Beta · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 0

It was blessed by Joseph Smith

M M · · Maine · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 2

Curious myself

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,100

The route to the left of the Green A, Subordinate Claws was initially climbed as a runout lead. Later it was bolted. The bolts were removed. In the Ruckman guide it had an R rating. In the Smith guide it has an X rating. The comment about the face should be left as is refers to this climbing only. 

Similarly the face between Green A and Prepositional Phase as been climbed as TR. I can vaguely recall doing that decades ago. I would not be surprised if has been solo'd in similar fashion as Subordinate Claws. In general, one starts up Prepositional Phase then instead of following the crack right one goes straight up, ending at the belay for the first pitch of the Green A. In this case no one bothered to record any history.

The route description linked above seems to describes that, albeit poorly written.  So if I am correct it sounds like someone filled in a blank spot which depending on the location of the two bolts may be reasonable.

zoso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 783

Thx Allen that's helpful.  

What was the problem with Salsa Verde? 

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,100
zoso wrote:

What was the problem with Salsa Verde? 

That I can not remember. Was it to the left of Subordinate Claws?

zoso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 783

It was between Green A and Prepositional Phrase.  I think?

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,100
zoso wrote:

It was between Green A and Prepositional Phrase.  I think?

If that is the case and as I recall Prepositional Phase wanders a bit my uneducated guess is that it was considered a squeeze route and got removed. I would not be surprise if this "new" route was more or less the start of the Salsa Verde??

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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