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Looking for beginner crack climbing recommendations near SLC

Original Post
Nick M · · SLC, UT · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 5

Nearly all of my trad climbing experience has been in the Gunks and I've never really had to jam a vertical crack before. I've done it but I don't feel very confident in the technique. I'm now local to SLC and want to eventually get on some classics in the canyons but would like to improve my technique on some easy stuff. Anybody have some route recommendations to learn how to crack climb? If it's easy enough I would probably just lead straight away but it could also be fun to TR solo and just put in reps without worrying about falling

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,100

Pretty much pick out any 5.7-5.9 multiple star trad climb in LCC and you will be jamming yer fingies and smearing yer footies.

Andy Gonzalez · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2021 · Points: 10

yooo shoot me a PM just moved to Salt Lake City and looking for climbing partners! I climb up to 5.11 on trad

Daniel Hadley · · SLC, UT · Joined Jul 2023 · Points: 5

Squeeze My Lemon is a good first lead. Bongeater can be TR soloed for practice at more difficult splitter crack.  

Tyler M · · SL, UT · Joined Dec 2021 · Points: 0

Schoolroom is a great moderate climb that’s almost all crack climbing, highly recommended if you’re comfortable multi pitching it

Branon Rochelle · · Vernal, UT · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 298

Schoolroom, Crack in the Woods, Hand Jive, Crescent Crack are all great and pretty sure to be clear/accessible.

Tim Myers · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 236

Filthy Garbage might only have a handful of stars, but I feel like it might be one of the best intro crack climbs in the Wasatch. It progressively gets wider from sizes #2 to #6. 

Eric Chabot · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 45

Dihederals in lcc gives you a 5.7, 5.8, 5.9, a couple 10s and a 5.11 as you work thru the grades! AM sun, PM safe, approach is a little sketchy but not bad.

Nick M · · SLC, UT · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 5

Thank you everyone for the recommendations. Now does anybody have any recs for routes that are easy to TR solo? I know there's bongeater and a few climbs in ferguson canyon (cathedral wall left side looks possible as well as inner light at watchtower main)

Eric Chabot · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 45

Check out the sail. The approach is pretty steep/loose but it's top-accessible and has some cool routes.

Daniel Hadley · · SLC, UT · Joined Jul 2023 · Points: 5

You can set up a TR on the Offwidth boulder with a large (I think #6) cam. 

Nate Hearns · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Feb 2021 · Points: 126

Best TR solo I've found so far in LCC is Last First Crack. Narcolepsy in BCC is easy enough as well (The Slips/Storm Mountain Island also have some top accessible routes). It might be a bit loose but you should be able to get up to Plumb Line as well. Barefoot in Barbados for slab. Powder Ridge and some of the nearby walls in Ferguson should be top accessible. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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