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The Nose - But All The Pitches

Bb Cc · · California · Joined May 2020 · Points: 20

Pardon my left handed finger scribble...

"T-Method"

Love the trip report, finding the hauling report part and aftermath fun and productive.

Wish I was closer to IronWorks...

Skot Richards · · Lakewood, CA · Joined May 2020 · Points: 0
Mark Hudon wrote:

Your drawing shows a 2:1 system.

In your drawing, let's asume that from the Pro Trax down to the ascender is 1 foot. Let's assume that from the Pro Trax down to the pulley is also 1 foot.

Grab the rope right next to and on the right side of the pulley and pull up.
How many feet do you need to pull before the ascender hits the Pro Trax?

2 feet.

Classic 2:1.
You're right-most pulley contributes nothing to the mechanical advantage, it merely changes the direction of pull.

Are you guys in the Bay Area?
I'm giving two big wall clinics near the end of June at the Berkeley Ironworks.
I guarantee I can make your next wall easier on you.

This is gonna be controversial….
I love you mark but your wrong.
its 3:1

The line holding the load is part of the pulley system. That’s why it contributes to the ratio.
if the hauling system was separate from the load line it’s 2:1 like we always use.
In our system the load line simply goes through a Trax to capture progress and thus doesn’t contribute to the ratio.
in the pictured system it is part of the system and does contribute to the ratio making it 3:1 and slow as fuck.  Haha. 

Bailey Moore · · Sierras · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 545

I'm sure I still have lots I could learn from a clinic, but am booked with work and future walls for the next 2 months. Thanks for the input yall!

Mark Hudon · · Reno, NV · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

Yup, you are all right and I’m wrong.

Simply put, if all of this were attached to a branch on a tree and you were sitting on the branch replacing the pulley that is the redirect you would have to pull up three times the distance to the ascender to get it up to you.
3:1, no doubt about it!
I just watched a video that explained it real well. Learn something new every day! 

Thanks for the conversation! 

Bb Cc · · California · Joined May 2020 · Points: 20
Mark Hudon wrote:

Yup, you are all right and I’m wrong.

Simply put, if all of this were attached to a branch on a tree and you were sitting on the branch replacing the pulley that is the redirect you would have to pull up three times the distance to the ascender to get it up to you.
3:1, no doubt about it!
I just watched a video that explained it real well. Learn something new every day! 

Thanks for the conversation! 

Thanks for sharing your experience. I watch alot and read a bunch. Hope you are overbooked for your talks.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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