To bolt or not to bolt?

I’m sure this will get some people riled up, but it’s raining and I’ve been developing some new areas at exit 38 in North bend. Obviously it’s a predominantly sport climbing area, and they will be sport crags, but there are a few funky cracks that I’m debating whether to bolt or to have go mostly on gear.

If these climbs were in Index, Leavenworth or anywhere with good rock and a trad climbing ethic, there would be no question. But it’s quite a hike up there, the area attracts predominantly sport climbers, and there are some bands of bad rock.

The first is an overhung 12 that could go about 3/4 on gear, The top has no gear and needs a couple bolts. The middle section goes through some bad rock with slick and flaring placements. If this was good rock I would have left it, but with the quality of the rock, I decided to bolt it. The bottom is much better rock and splitter. It would take 2 pieces (or more if you wanted to back them up) in the #4 range. So far I’ve left the bottom to go on gear, as it will need crack climbing techniques, but some people have said I should just bolt it if I want it to ever get climbed. It would be the only thing that needs any gear at the crag that is full of bouldery 11’s and 12’s. Thoughts?

The second climb is in the process of being cleaned. It’s a corner system that I think will be hard 10 to mid 11. It starts with a short but perfect hand crack into a short .4 layback, then turns into a stemming corner with some spaced, small and slightly finicky gear. It finishes on a slab that does have one shallow flaring .3 placement that I could see ripping. I think I’d probably like to send it on gear, but the cleaning has been extensive, and I’d prefer for it to get climbed and stay clean rather than growing back over as I think it’s going to be a good climb. I may put a bolt on the upper slab regardless, but I don’t know if I should leave the rest to go on gear. Thoughts?

Since it's quite a hike and predominantly a sport area, I'd say go ahead and bolt it for sport. I doubt many trad climbers will want to go to all that effort for 2 trad routes in a sport area.

On the other hand, I once showed up at a Red Rock sport crag that had one trad route. The bemused looks from other climbers were priceless.

for what it's worth im pretty sure aldoos is embracing bolted crack climbing

A couple of gear placements among a sea of sport is goofy, bolt it. 

For the crack line, I'd say if it's an outstanding gear line that people will seek out then leave it. But if it'll otherwise never get climbed again then bolt it.

Re: It would be the only thing that needs any gear at the crag 

My home climbing area, Mickey’s Beach, is almost entirely sport climbing. When I want to practice placing gear or doing light A1 aid practice, there is one and only one crack system without any bolts. Guess where I spend most of my time.

A developer who does stuff in the area expressed an interest in bolting it “so that people would climb it!”

I told him about my desire to get the redpoint on it and that I felt it should stay a trad climb. Fortunately, he saw my point and has not bolted it. I really hope no one else gets the same idea.

My $0.02--If it's at the Exits, just bolt it. If it's on the granite, then keep it a trad route.