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Obsolete aid hardware

Original Post
RWPT · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 0

With gear such as totems and offset cams ,  is there any aid hardware rarley used or even considered obsolete unless you're far away from everything and trying out a new wall?

Thanks 

Charles Winstead · · Mill Valley · Joined Jul 2021 · Points: 184

Beaks have pretty much made rurps obsolete, and maybe knife blades too.

Kauait · · Wheels be turnin. · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

Rurps still have their place, just like so many other pieces.  Just less obsolete.  But keep them close if your out doing your thing. There is always that one hole or seam that can except something.  Move on :)

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

Soft steel pitons definitely fall into this category, it used to be thought that they were good for limestone but petzl testing showed them to be awful compared to chromoly. Begs the question why petzl still sell them. 

cieneguita · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 147

Rurps (std, vertical) have been obsolete for 30 years since deucy came out w beaks. The clog horizontal have their use.

I once had a large arrow/kb/angle rack but now beaks and maybe 10 other la/angles.  

Hans Lacasse · · Canaan, NH · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 15

Still find places for rurps they punch into almost blank seams well. Still find places for kb like in corners way easier  to place and clean.

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

Interestingly, outside of putting up first ascents, binoculars probably fall into this. Well written guide books, photos, and even videos make the need of inspecting thin crack seams from a km away mostly obsolete. 

Kauait · · Wheels be turnin. · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

Im pretty fond of the blurps.

Even more niche. But still work wonders.

Nate A · · SW WA · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 0

What about bongs? Is there anywhere you might use one that you wouldn’t be able to place a cam?

Mark Hudon · · Reno, NV · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420
Nate A wrote:

What about bongs? Is there anywhere you might use one that you wouldn’t be able to place a cam?

I'm sure there might be but I'm not going to run out and buy any just in case.

Charles Winstead · · Mill Valley · Joined Jul 2021 · Points: 184
Nate A wrote:

What about bongs? Is there anywhere you might use one that you wouldn’t be able to place a cam?

We’re working on a route that passes through a dirty crack. You could nail a bong straight into the dirt, whereas you’d have to clean the crack out to place a cam. Unfortunately, neither I nor my buddy have any bongs. I would carry them for that section if we had them though.

Eric Craig · · Santa Cruz · Joined Sep 2024 · Points: 0

I just sold my bongs, on Ebay. They sold in about an hour. or two. I am sure I never used one after about 1982. The 4 incher got used a few times on free climbs, set as a chock. I felt it was superior to tube chocks. But I didn't climb any hard offwidths from about 1976 until about 1993.

I believe knifeblades are still essential, depending on where you are climbing. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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