Denali stake removal tool

Kyle Tarry wrote:

This doesn't really apply on Denali, where snow anchors are normally buried and covered (often t-trench style), and you're likely to have fresh snow pile on top of them over the week or longer that most parties are at the major camps.

I’ve used this technique on 13 Denali expeditions

Nick A wrote:

I’ve used this technique on 13 Denali expeditions

I apologize, and defer to your experience.  What I have had happen up there is the tent anchors get super buried and frozen and there’s no way to get them out without digging, but I’ve done way less trips than you so maybe that’s not the norm.

Thats an impressive amount of slogging, Nick! 

Kyle Tarry wrote:

I apologize, and defer to your experience.  What I have had happen up there is the tent anchors get super buried and frozen and there’s no way to get them out without digging, but I’ve done way less trips than you so maybe that’s not the norm.

No need to apologize! We’ve all had different experiences. I just wanted to share one trick that sometimes works

Stiles wrote:

Thats an impressive amount of slogging, Nick! 

Too much slogging, in fact! But many other guides have spent more time on Denali than me.

in my twenties I was very obsessed with the Alaska Range. Any day in those mountains was a good one, whether climbing with friends, suffering in a storm, or slogging on the Buttress. I’d usually arrive in Alaska in early April and leave in mid July, at the very end of the climbing season. I did that for about 10 years. I still love climbing up there, but in moderation.

Kyle Tarry wrote:

I apologize, and defer to your experience.  What I have had happen up there is the tent anchors get super buried and frozen and there’s no way to get them out without digging, but I’ve done way less trips than you so maybe that’s not the norm.

That’s what happened to us. Stormed, drifted deep. Then had daytime warming and cold nights. Those vertically placed stakes were stuck, deep. They wouldn’t have even registered a stomp.

When I posted my question, I was recalling reading (on the NPS FAQ site maybe?) that they recommend a metal trowel. I was wondering if y’all bring that (I’m guessing not), and if so, any special features, like freaking serrated teeth to dig through ice?!

But I’m satisfied with the fabric anchor tip.

Jennifer Zuber wrote:

Dang, super helpful tip for the fabric anchors, and I especially appreciate the specifics on how to use them. I’m so glad I asked.

Do you guys also bring stakes (we just dropped some $$ on Hilleberg snow/sand stakes), or just leave them at home? Leaving stakes at home would make me nervous, so if it’s customary for teams to 100% depend on fabric anchors, please give extra reassurance.

Thanks again!

If you have the hilleberg or similar snow stakes I’d just bring those (maybe bring just enough for critical anchors and the rest can be improvised ) as they are by far the most convenient to place, extract, and don’t weigh all that much. Ive used thick plastic bags and bamboo wands as deadman anchors but they are definitely more faff and often get destroyed when it comes time to hack them out of the ice. 

Jennifer Zuber wrote:

When I posted my question, I was recalling reading (on the NPS FAQ site maybe?) that they recommend a metal trowel. I was wondering if y’all bring that (I’m guessing not), and if so, any special features, like freaking serrated teeth to dig through ice?!

But I’m satisfied with the fabric anchor tip.

A big snow saw is a requisite for cutting ice blocks to build walls with.  Bigger the better.  At 17k', only a steel garden shovel (a 3' steel spade) will make a dent in the ice-- a snow shovel wont cut it (so to speak).  

If you do a search on here, there are Denali Tips to be perused, if you havent already.  

Stiles wrote:

At 17k', only a steel garden shovel (a 3' steel spade) will make a dent in the ice

Crap, that’s exactly what I’ve been wondering. We are planning to camp at 17k. Is hauling that large shovel up there the typical default?!?

Yep on the snow saw.

Taking the Hilleberg stakes (in addition to the fabric ones) sounds prudent.

Jennifer Zuber wrote:

Crap, that’s exactly what I’ve been wondering. We are planning to camp at 17k. Is hauling that large shovel up there the typical default?!?

Yep on the snow saw.

Taking the Hilleberg stakes (in addition to the fabric ones) sounds prudent.

My group brought a smallish (28”) steel spade up for 17k camp. My honest answer is that there is likely to be a group who could lend one, guided groups will have them and people help each other out, and an adze could be used in a pinch but a self reliant answer is to bring one along

Mitch L wrote:

self reliant 

100%

I appreciate the specifics.

I’m not gonna lie. Despite tremendous preparatory effort for this first expedition, I’m wondering what I don’t know that I don’t know. I’m just venting.

Stiles - yes, the Denali Tips on this forum are gold. I went so far as to print lots of them out and put the stack in a folder. Every time we drove for a prep trip, I would read them aloud and take notes, look things up, ect. I probably missed a recommendation for the steel shovel. 

Thanks tons you guys

My answer is a shovel, but I found it beyond worth its weight to bring a real shovel. I got a steel blade transfer shovel from Home Depot in Anchorage for $20 and it is so much more efficient, saves your back, and doesn't break your avy shovel to set up base camp. And makes chopping those pesky pent stakes (which should be bamboo poles but same thing) out so much easier

snow parachute anchors as previously mentioned. Dig them deep at 14 and 17 or else. If one or two comes undone (by snow being eaten away by wind) your tent will become a sail and rip away if you're not there to save it. I've seen it many times. Don't be stingy on your snow anchors up there.