Aid practice in Jtree and around SoCal

Can anyone recommend a place in Jtree I can practice aid? Specifically, sequences, systems and setting up a portaledge? Ideally a place where I won't get in the way of other climbers. I'm also looking for recommendations for places I can practice south of LA and north of San Diego.

Riverside Quarry has some stuff to practice on.

bigwall.com/scag_rc.html#an…

Mt. Rubidoux in Riverside is a good bet.

There is a bridge abutment in the riverbed near Hart Park that has a thin nailing traverse wrapping around it. I rope soloed it once while the cops conducted a homicide investigation just upriver...aah, wilderness.

if your purely looking for a place to practice systems and not the actual aiding, check here El Cajon Quarry 2 pitches all bolts. Definitely helped rid some of the easy to manage cluster fucks before setting of on my first wall. Although, it's fairly out of the way.

The bridge abutment that PRRose refers to is in Santiago Park, which is upstream from Hart Park. Fun nailing with RURPs and tied off knifeblades and lost arrows. You can find details and directions in the Hunk Guide to Orange County by Randy Vogel.

I've been going up to the Tunnel Crag up Angeles Crest and aid soloing. It's good hooking practice between bolts and there are a few crack lines too. It's kinda snowed in right now but nice during the week when the road opens.

Sam Fletcher wrote:if your purely looking for a place to practice systems and not the actual aiding, check here El Cajon Quarry 2 pitches all bolts. Definitely helped rid some of the easy to manage cluster fucks before setting of on my first wall. Although, it's fairly out of the way.

Also on that same wall there is a pitch with some hook moves. It's located on the right side of the wall. Belay from the big obvious flat rock above the cave.

Benjamin Chapman wrote:The bridge abutment that PRRose refers to is in Santiago Park, which is upstream from Hart Park. Fun nailing with RURPs and tied off knifeblades and lost arrows. You can find details and directions in the Hunk Guide to Orange County by Randy Vogel.

Correct, it is in Santiago but I think it's downstream from Hart Park. In any event, it's the other side of the 22 Freeway.

Hi everyone, after 10 years I am reviving this post!

Anybody know indoor gym where we can  practice Aid and Hauling system in Socal area more ideally, orange county?

--What I got to know so far 

Riverside quarry - Visited mid March, didnt see anybody climbing! After several rock slide, was it totally abandoned?

Mt. Rubidoux - Aid routes still available although first bolts are taken away on some routes...

Miki Tanaka wrote:

Hi everyone, after 10 years I am reviving this post!

Anybody know indoor gym where we can  practice Aid and Hauling system in Socal area more ideally, orange county?

--What I got to know so far 

Riverside quarry - Visited mid March, didnt see anybody climbing! After several rock slide, was it totally abandoned?

Mt. Rubidoux - Aid routes still available although first bolts are taken away on some routes...

Hi, Miki ... The Stronghold (DTLA) is one of the few indoor gyms where you can actually practice the kind of stuff you're talking about. I taught myself the basics of aid climbing, ascending the rope, and lead rope solo under their roof... And they have an excellent deep self-rescues course, with an amazing instructor. Their main rule is that you need some kind of belay (TR, lead, or auto) when you get above bouldering height.

I have also seen people at Stronghold learning to rig portaledges, haul systems, etc... I would just try to avoid anything wacky during their peak (weekday evening) hours. Weekends midday are usually wide open.

Stronghold is also just a fantastic gym with (IMHO) the consistently best roped routes in the LA area. Worth taking a trip for the climbing alone.

Sender would not allow aid practice.

If your lookin' for a full on aidventure, you've gotta check out goof proof roof. it's incredible!!! and fun! Joshua tree is so expansive You can just walk in any direction for 10 minutes and be alone amongst a sea of aid climbable rocks!
When my chums and I are aiding out there, we just walk away from where the climbers are, until we find something that seems fun and cool. and if people show up, then we can finish up our pitch and waddle somewhere else
If you're really down south, Quarry Wall in San Diego is the perfect aid practice location to get dialed. Running laps on The follow problem will get you dialed! 

Mika …. You dug up an old one.

Stoney Point has the “bolt ladder” on the Jesus Wall. Close by is Rocky Peak with a 2 pitch route.

And I want to say this: You don’t practice aid you just do it!

Good luck with your quest 

Guy Keesee wrote:

... And I want to say this: You don’t practice aid you just do it!

:: dude who has spent the last year practicing aid climbing ::

I once walked out to Bird of Fire only to find a couple of dudes aiding the thing.  Said they had been running aid laps all day and were going to continue to do so.  I was, and still am to this day, completely dumbfounded.  As Kyle said, JTree is a sea of cracks.  Aiding one of the most popular free climbs in the park is beyond me.  Whatever you do, don't be these guys.

Wow! So much valuable comment! Thank you all!!!

>Ryan Lynch  Ill definitely go to The Stronghold (DTLA)  soon! 

>Gumby King nahh They dont let us.. A staff didnt understand what aid climbing is when I asked them if it is arrowed. Maybe my english was good enough though

>Kyle Pereira Gonna try goof proof roof this weekend! and thanks for info about SD! it is also close to us, will try before it gonna be deadly hot.

>Guy Keesee  Yes! I didnt expect that I got those informative reply though! Bolt Laddar on Stoney point, thanks!

>Cole Ing Thats true, we better think twice before doing it. Bird of Fire is one of most populars 10a, not sure if I wanna do aid there.

Miki Tanaka wrote:

>Gumby King nahh They dont let us.. A staff didnt understand what aid climbing is when I asked them if it is arrowed. Maybe my english was good enough though

Sadly, I'm not surprised :-/  But in their defense, they likely make less money than at McDonalds

Sort routes by most popular and start from the top. Classic routes eat gear. 

Cole Ing wrote:

I once walked out to Bird of Fire only to find a couple of dudes aiding the thing.  Said they had been running aid laps all day and were going to continue to do so.  I was, and still am to this day, completely dumbfounded.  As Kyle said, JTree is a sea of cracks.  Aiding one of the most popular free climbs in the park is beyond me.  Whatever you do, don't be these guys.

The problem here is "laps" not aid climbing it. 

They are welcome to climb it anyway they want as long as it doesn't damage the rock.

But each member of the Party gets one turn on it then they need to make way for others.

hillbilly hijinks wrote:

The problem here is "laps" not aid climbing it. 

They are welcome to climb it anyway they want as long as it doesn't damage the rock.

But each member of the Party gets one turn on it then they need to make way for others.

I have some physical issues that are limiting my movements, more and more, every season. The hardest routes I'll be able to free are already in my past.

The only way I'll ever be able to climb some routes, classics or not, is *very slowly*, possibly with a terrific amount of aid, and a lot of breaks... Possibly hours on a single pitch.

Not everybody has as accommodating of an attitude as you... I catch a fair amount of shit when I happen to be in the way of the guy who walks up ~11am and doesn't feel like waiting another ~2hr for me to finish.