Does heat alone degrade climbing gear?
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Help me figure this out, my wife and I are arguing about this subject. Can heat alone degrade climbing gear? The kind of heat you can expect to find by leaving your gear in the trunk of a car in the summer in the desert. From my understanding, it's primarily UV radiation that degrades our gear. She seems to think that the heat, UV or not, will degrade the gear (ropes, slings, harnesses, nylon, dyneema, etc, etc - any softgoods). Obviously extreme heat, to the point of melting, would degrade the gear - I agree. But I'm not sure you'd see that kind of heat in this situation. Obviously the trunk of a car in the summer in the desert is going to get pretty hot, but I would think the gear would need to be in direct sun for the damage to occur. I could be wrong. I guess as an example, if we left our softgoods in the trunk of a car in the summer in the desert for a week, would they still be good to go or would we need to be concerned? That's the crux of our argument. Thanks for any feedback or advice. |
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A hot car has the potential to degrade the adhesives used in climbing shoes. |
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Last time I dug up some values for heat degradation of Nylon: |
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From my perspective neither of you are correct. What degrades soft gear is usage. Normal exposure to UV radiation, oxidation, acid rain, heat, etc. has little impact on soft gear compared to usage over the course of its life span. Myself and others have shown this to be true. In my case we did laboratory experiments to asses the affect of acid rain and UV on climbing ropes. |
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Andrew R wrote: This. I wouldn't worry about nylon or dyneema gear as much, as it's realistically not that much of an issue. As poster above states, over time in extreme conditions, degradation might occur on those as well. But for all your other gear, especially anything with leather and/or glue, leaving it an extremely hot car can degrade it. Couple of hours, maybe not so much. But let's say leaving your rock climbing shoes in the trunk of your car while going summer alpine climbing for a week? Maybe not such a great idea. A friend of mine did this once, he found that the shoes shrunk a size. |
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The seatbelts in your car are still good, right? People who live out of their vans also don’t have a problem, though their vans tend to be better insulated, and they take steps to not park in the sun, and to use window shades whenever possible…
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Victor Machtel wrote: Definitely true for the shoes. I was living out of my car on the road last year for six months, and multiple pairs of resoled climbing shoes started delaminating super quickly after being in the hot car for a long time. Slings and rope didn’t have any noticeable issues over the same period of time. I think reflective window shades would help, and putting stuff in my black roof box probably made things worse. |
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I couldn't find the video quickly, but HowNot2 broke two pieces of webbing? nylon sling? of the same age but different storage conditions: one that lived in the bottom of a closet was fine, one that lived in an attic (and was thus subject to many temperature swings) was weaker and made weird sounds Edit, found it: https://m.youtube.com/shorts/2SZXaJlQoH4 |
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I think there is a bolt failure in Turkey that was attributed to having the bonding agent in the trunk for a few days before bolt installation. |
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dave custer wrote: Completely agree that chocolate is a 10 essential, actually find that Ten are Essential. If a Bond agent failed in Turkey they should've bolted earlier. Nylons can degrade in a car... |
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dave custer wrote: This is why I carry my chocolate in M&M form, nestled amongst shock-absorbing peanuts and raisins. |
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Short answer: |