Improving safety margins of the petzl adjust through improved rope choice

Obviously hownot2 alreay did a nice video on it, too bad he didnt test the petzl connect with 7mm cord since that seems like what most people use in the connect adjust, but after rewatching the video im starting to question if 7mm is really a smart idea... yeah it is easy to adjust.... but seems like it would definitely slip all the way to the knot, and average 5kn on a fall, and 7mm with a knot is pretty much rated to 6-7kn so not much margin there... 

https://youtu.be/vIvZyKdF9fs?feature=shared

J D wrote:

Obviously hownot2 alreay did a nice video on it, too bad he didnt test the petzl connect with 7mm cord since that seems like what most people use in the connect adjust, but after rewatching the video im starting to question if 7mm is really a smart idea... yeah it is easy to adjust.... but seems like it would definitely slip all the way to the knot, and average 5kn on a fall, and 7mm with a knot is pretty much rated to 6-7kn so not much margin there... 

https://youtu.be/vIvZyKdF9fs?feature=shared

Hownot2 rate sterling 7mm at 10.69kn 8 to 8. I've seen fat daisy falls from Oliver tippet and everything was fine, the human body is very squishy and probably does a lot more to limit the forces involved. Speaking of what we don't know, do we know the 7mm will slip that much in a fall? 

Did I miss it, or did no one bring up that the edelrid rap line is designed to be fairly low elongation until it gets over-loaded, at which point the sheath breaks, then it stretches to absorb force once? Its supposed to be able to be doubled over and lead on, and fallen on once, as a twin rope. Considering only half of it was used, and not as intended, that force is pretty admirable... and inline with how it was designed to work.

I don't think you should be lumping in its failure mode, designed failure mode at that, as what to expect in other situations considering how unique that cord is.

I use the 8.2 Starling protect pro dry in the adjust, and I like it.

As far as improving safety margins on very small static cords... you could try to have a knot that would cinch down tighter to absorb some force in a fall... but if you are going small static cords, safety margin isn't really in your mind, you are weight focused. Whatever happens, happens. If you FF2 on your tether, either it breaks or you do.

As far as improving safety margins on larger dynamic cords, that are still smaller than the default. You have a harness attachment knot that can cinch down and dissipate additional force. Trying to choose between different dynamic ropes of the same diameter... would require actual testing.