Using a Wren/Rock Exotica Soloist....

I've looked through every thread on here that I can find on top-rope soloing that mentions using a Soloist, but still have some questions about it in particular.

Most threads turn into debates on which is the best system to use, but suprisingly not many people mention using the Soloist. Is this primarily because of the need to use a chest harness with it or is it due to the price of it or both? Fwiw I don't mind using a chest harness. Any other reason not to use one? Asking because I got a nearly new one for a good price, but I don't want to use it if the device has issues.

I am far from an expert, but I use a soloist on occasion. My experience is mostly on lead, so I can't comment on its value to top-roping, and I suspect that many devices work better for TR. There are a couple trade-off between it and other devices, such as the Silent Partner. As you mentioned, you need a chest harness and upside down falls may be a problem. It does not feed as smoothly as a Silent Partner. It is also difficult to clip gear over your head. The thing I like about it compared to a Silent Partner is that you don't need to reach a certain speed to lock it off. You can place gear and hang off it (on the rope, not direct) if need be. This also works on TR, meaning you can fall or "take" at any time without losing ground like you do with a Silent Partner. I got mine, like you, because it was cheap. It has no issues, but does take practice to work out its nuances. I think it works better for leading than for a dedicated solo TR device.

I think the big reason might be that it doesn't catch if you fall upside down.

This is somewhat true...it doesn't catch you if you STAY upside down. The chest harness does help turn you right side up if you fall inverted. I'm scared when there is the possibility that I can fall and land upside down (think a slab) before the chest harness has a chance to put me right side up. In my usage with the Soloist, I'd consider it a real rarity that I'm in such a situation (leading), and when cleaning a pitch or top-roping, it is even less likely.

If you did fall inverted and the Soloist didn't catch you, then your back-up knot should jam up at the device which should catch you...theoretically speaking....right? FWIW I have never fallen inverted in 10+ years of climbing and no plans to start anytime soon. Helps that I don't climb stuff that is much past vertical. Might go out and experiment with it this weekend.

use a kroll off of a sling around your shoulder up top and use a cinch or an ushba for the lower piece. this way you're in twice, backed up, and your lower piece will hold you if you fall upside down. this system rocks! if you use the cinch and get to a point that you can't ascend you just pop off the kroll and rappel. if you use the ushba climb w/ a gri gri or a cinch to go into if you have to bail. no back up knots required and you can fall fall fall away without ever being worried. if you're really into redundancy you can tie off at half way on your rope and put one end into the kroll and the other into lower device, read: bomber. the lvabs posse showed me this at the paradise forks and it has changed my life... no partner? no problem...

p.s. this is a toprope solo system. i've got zero beta on leading solo...

p.p.s. works best on routes that go straight up and down. i've set up a traverse or two and it is a pain in the a$$...

hope that helps homie,

jon

A soloist works great for top roping. I have a hard time imagining how you could take an inverted fall while TR soloing.

The only bummer about the device is that you have to mess with the cam at the top of every pitch unless you use the device for rappelling as well. If you do this I would recommend using a autoblock backup as the soloist does not provide much friction with a biner in it's back opening.

If you wanted to be safe use a minitraxion below the device for a backup attached to your belay loop.

Happy soloing.

John Wiser wrote: I've looked through every thread on here that I can find on top-rope soloing that mentions using a Soloist, but still have some questions about it in particular. Most threads turn into debates on which is the best system to use, but suprisingly not many people mention using the Soloist. Is this primarily because of the need to use a chest harness with it or is it due to the price of it or both? Fwiw I don't mind using a chest harness. Any other reason not to use one? Asking because I got a nearly new one for a good price, but I don't want to use it if the device has issues.

I've been using one for several years for TRS, it works very well. It will not catch an inverted fall as others have stated, so if you're planning on climbing overhanging routes (or a 'backwards running fall' on slab) it may not be the best device.

I use a redundant 2-rope system with a rollnlock on the 2nd rope as a backup. It works great.

Paul OBK wrote:

I've been using one for several years for TRS, it works very well. It will not catch an inverted fall as others have stated, so if you're planning on climbing overhanging routes (or a 'backwards running fall' on slab) it may not be the best device.

Did you mean lead rope-solo? 

I agree that it works well for LRS. Been using them for years and am on my 3rd one.

nbrown wrote:

Did you mean lead rope-solo? 

I agree that it works well for LRS. Been using them for years and am on my 3rd one.

I haven't stepped into LRS, the OP was asking about TRS I thought :)

Paul OBK wrote:

I haven't stepped into LRS, the OP was asking about TRS I thought :)

Gotcha. I used to use mine for both but for anything remotely hard (for me) it was just way too difficult having to constantly tighten up while top roping. It just doesn't feed through well enough for my taste. I think there are many other devices that feed more efficiently nowadays. The one thing I did like about the Soloist (in TRS mode) was how easily I could lower back down a move or two to work a sequence; just lean back (carefully) and down you go (kinda like a gri gri). That's a little more difficult with the ascender I use now, but it has many more advantages IMO.

Curious, does the rope feed through automatically with your setup or do you have to do so manually?

Paul OBK wrote:

I haven't stepped into LRS, the OP was asking about TRS I thought :)

I’d be shocked if Op still climbs as this thread is 15 years old.

Cory N wrote:

I’d be shocked if Op still climbs as this thread is 15 years old.

Apparently Just missed him.  Looks like OP quit about a year ago, lol.  

nbrown wrote:

Gotcha. I used to use mine for both but for anything remotely hard (for me) it was just way too difficult having to constantly tighten up while top roping. It just doesn't feed through well enough for my taste. I think there are many other devices that feed more efficiently nowadays. The one thing I did like about the Soloist (in TRS mode) was how easily I could lower back down a move or two to work a sequence; just lean back (carefully) and down you go (kinda like a gri gri). That's a little more difficult with the ascender I use now, but it has many more advantages IMO.

Curious, does the rope feed through automatically with your setup or do you have to do so manually?

I normally attach my approach shoes to the rope on a clove hitch, it feeds well with a little weight on it. I do sometimes have to feed rope on the first move or 2. It's also not enough weight to affect my 2-strand rappel when I go to clean and rap the pitch.

Not only will it not hold an inverted fall, it also won't hold a fall where your body is parallel to the ground.