FDP Strain Heal Time? (to Cap Injury-Filled Season)

How long have your minor FDP strains taken to heal?  I can clinch fist.  But three finger drag sends a 5-6ish out of 10 pain in my forearm with slight tingling in my pinky and ring finger.  

Frustrating injury season.  This is my 3rd year climbing.  Started off this season (October) making great progress on projects.  Got too ambitious and tore my A2.  Nearly 4 months off but hand jams didn't hurt so I got the trad bug and started training on the gym crack every session while healing.  Tore my meniscus and took nearly 2 more months.  lol.  Finally got healthy and then this last week was limit bouldering and tweaked my FDP.  Woof.

Is this a fairly common theme for climbers in their 40s? Lol.  I warm up, and don't climb more than 2-3 days per week.  Clearly need to learn to listen to my body during sessions a little more accurately.  

Bobby Wheat wrote:

How long have your minor FDP strains taken to heal?  I can clinch fist.  But three finger drag sends a 5-6ish out of 10 pain in my forearm with slight tingling in my pinky and ring finger.  

Frustrating injury season.  This is my 3rd year climbing.  Started off this season (October) making great progress on projects.  Got too ambitious and tore my A2.  Nearly 4 months off but hand jams didn't hurt so I got the trad bug and started training on the gym crack every session while healing.  Tore my meniscus and took nearly 2 more months.  lol.  Finally got healthy and then this last week was limit bouldering and tweaked my FDP.  Woof.

Is this a fairly common theme for climbers in their 40s? Lol.  I warm up, and don't climb more than 2-3 days per week.  Clearly need to learn to listen to my body during sessions a little more accurately.  

It sounds like a case of slight overstoker and some bad luck. Not an ideal combination but hopefully your stoke will keep you moving along.

I have some slight fdp irritation currently though much milder it sounds like. Never got beyond a 3 and I could still climb. I ended up curbing the volume I did and the intensity slightly to stay below the ‘irritation’ threshold. As long as you do that and progress gradually back up then you should be fine.

Tendons take 4-6 weeks to heal enough to climb hard again (if you allow them) and probably another  2-4 weeks to fully resolve.

Lightly weighted Barbells finger curls are great for this. I find that doing some light and long duration hangboarding in the irritated position helps for these types of injuries. No more than 2-3/10.

hope this helps.

ps. See a pt

Pps I’m not a pt

Lorenzo de Amicis wrote:

It sounds like a case of slight overstoker and some bad luck. Not an ideal combination but hopefully your stoke will keep you moving along.

I have some slight fdp irritation currently though much milder it sounds like. Never got beyond a 3 and I could still climb. I ended up curbing the volume I did and the intensity slightly to stay below the ‘irritation’ threshold. As long as you do that and progress gradually back up then you should be fine.

Tendons take 4-6 weeks to heal enough to climb hard again (if you allow them) and probably another  2-4 weeks to fully resolve.

Lightly weighted Barbells finger curls are great for this. I find that doing some light and long duration hangboarding in the irritated position helps for these types of injuries. No more than 2-3/10.

hope this helps.

ps. See a pt

Pps I’m not a pt

Amazing. Thank you!