Climber fall on Wind Tower Eldo

Greg D wrote:

I wonder to what extent rope stretch may have played a role here.

Greg- the fall occurred before the rope could be loaded into the belay device: no rope stretch.

Gregger Man wrote:

Greg- the fall occurred before the rope could be loaded into the belay device: no rope stretch.

Thanks. Looks like you mentioned that on page 1. I think I need some thicker glasses. 

Guilty.

While I don’t typically start climbing, I have taken out the anchor and stood on a ledge or made a move or two and waited for the belayer to catch up.

This is especially useful if you’re using the rope as your tie in or gear anchor. It means that you’re climbing as soon as the belay is on, actually a touch sooner. But from a safety standpoint, it’s wrong I guess.

I have been in many situations where that loop doesn’t get taken up quickly, and I will back off and plug a piece to wait to be on belay.

Sometimes, something comes up for the belayer. It can take a while. The idea of just blasting upward and hoping you’re on belay eventually is a bit of leap. 

If the rope wasn’t in a belay device yet, how close was the leader being pulled off the ledge?  Had they already built an anchor?

Rob Kepley wrote:

If the rope wasn’t in a belay device yet, how close was the leader being pulled off the ledge?  Had they already built an anchor?

Leader built an anchor, called off belay, sat down in a comfy spot and started pulling up rope. Before the end of that task the rope went tight in his hands.

Gregger Man wrote:

Leader built an anchor, called off belay, sat down in a comfy spot and started pulling up rope. Before the end of that task the rope went tight in his hands.

rope burn?