time to buy new crampons for ski mountaineering

I have been using a set of Sabretooths for way too many years now.  I just keep filing away.  But they are getting rusty and cranky old and at an age I wonder if they will fail.

My climbing partners seem to come up with all kinds of new fangled lightweight crampons.  I am ever envious of the weight, but at the same time I have seen points bend as we move through rock sections and legs quiver as they try to find purchase on ice.  I sure wish I had lighter crampons, but I never want to have crampons that aren't enough for the job.

There have been several adventures in the last couple years that I got jammed up unexpectedly on a sizable steep section of ice that made me wish I had something more and be thankful I didn't have something less.

What can you guys recommend for ski mountaineering missions that may get technical?

Petal Irvis hybrid is a popular option. Steep front, Alu back. Packs smallish. 

Look at the Blue Ice Harfang. They also make a more technical version.

Allen Sanderson wrote:

Look at the Blue Ice Harfang. They also make a more technical version.

I am really interested in the Harfang product line.  It seems like you get it all- burly steel, aggressive layout, plus light and compact.

But I keep hearing the center piece is always needed an adjustment and the crampons fall off.  Maybe that is overblown, but seems like a real problem.  

The Flying Dutchman wrote:

Petal Irvis hybrid is a popular option. Steep front, Alu back. Packs smallish. 

I recommend getting the Blue Ice harfang range. Had both, the harfang is a level up in multiple front, but mainly the dyneema center strap. Petzl solution is a timebomb and you have to check the wear on them continously.

Ryan Springcorn wrote:

I am really interested in the Harfang product line.  It seems like you get it all- burly steel, aggressive layout, plus light and compact.

But I keep hearing the center piece is always needed an adjustment and the crampons fall off.  Maybe that is overblown, but seems like a real problem.  

I had no issues, the problem is that after adjustment it will move 1-2mm until its sets place (its the slack). Im using both the normal and the technical version, without a problem. just make sure you follow the instructions, and watch out the first time after adjustment.

Ryan Springcorn wrote:

I am really interested in the Harfang product line.  It seems like you get it all- burly steel, aggressive layout, plus light and compact.

But I keep hearing the center piece is always needed an adjustment and the crampons fall off.  Maybe that is overblown, but seems like a real problem.  

The first few usage some adjustment might be necessary. I have not had that issue. Perhaps because initially I had them a wee bit tight so the material took the appropriate set.

Bel Aoros wrote:

I had no issues, the problem is that after adjustment it will move 1-2mm until its sets place (its the slack). Im using both the normal and the technical version, without a problem. just make sure you follow the instructions, and watch out the first time after adjustment.

Thanks for the feedback.  Sounds like you really like them.
Any reason not to just get the Tech version?  The weight difference seems fairly minor.  

I prioritize using the right tool for the job.  Many strong ski mountaineers have fallen down mountains solely because of lightweight tech ski binding failures, as one example.  I use steel where gear failure can lead to failure of objective or failure to get home safely.  If l am not strong enough to complete an objective using the appropriate gear, thats an indication l need to train more.  

If there is any doubt, there is no doubt.  To me, specialized ultra-lightweight gear's inherent weaknesses present very apparent doubts. 

I have been using the Blue Ice Harfang Mono this season for both ski touring and ice/mixed climbing. Obviously not as light as a full aluminum front and back, but you can swap the steel heel for an aluminum one which get you pretty close. The horizontal mono holds its own on ice and mixed pretty well.

Torstein Derauf wrote:

I have been using the Blue Ice Harfang Mono this season for both ski touring and ice/mixed climbing. Obviously not as light as a full aluminum front and back, but you can swap the steel heel for an aluminum one which get you pretty close. The horizontal mono holds its own on ice and mixed pretty well.

Harfangs getting a lot of positive feedback.

Seems like I am aiming at the Alpine, Mono or Tech.  But which one   ?

Ryan Springcorn wrote:

Thanks for the feedback.  Sounds like you really like them.
Any reason not to just get the Tech version?  The weight difference seems fairly minor.  

The normal (Harfang Alpine) is ideal for snowy conditions, and also ok for rocky passages (actually i have the mono version, which is a slightly better for mix climbing if you used to climbing in mono-point configuration), they have also have the 3 piece harfangs which are even more oriented towards ski and snow. (lighter, more packable, even a version from full aluminium)

The Tech is for vertical Ice/Mix climbing, it has replaceable front points, not ideal for snowy conditions/ski touring. 

What i like a lot better in the Harfang series, is that you can easily change the front pieces, without cutting the old dyneema  and tying a new. 

Camp Skimo Pure Nanotech have a nice front binding that is optimized for ski boots.

All steel construction.

Nanotechs weight 10.6 ounces per crampon, which is about half the weight of your old Sabertooths (20.1 ounces)  Nanotechs are pretty much the same weight as the Harfangs.  

I bought mine from these guys for about half what they cost here in the states:

https://www.oliunid.com/camp-skimo-pure-nanotech-automatic-crampon

Kai Larson wrote:

Camp Skimo Pure Nanotech have a nice front binding that is optimized for ski boots.

All steel construction.

Nanotechs weight 10.6 ounces per crampon, which is about half the weight of your old Sabertooths (20.1 ounces)  Nanotechs are pretty much the same weight as the Harfangs.  

I bought mine from these guys for about half what they cost here in the states:

https://www.oliunid.com/camp-skimo-pure-nanotech-automatic-crampon

One might want to read this thread and the tariff complications involving steel products. Someone mentions that “De Minimus” (no tax on shipments under $800) is going away May 2.

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/200714353/tariff-impact-on-hardware-imported-into-the-us

It will be a bummer if we cannot get the lower prices that Oliunid offers. I always wonder how they can sell at such greatly reduced prices compared with the US. Do US retailers really need to charge so much?  I am wondering if Oliunid may stop shipping to the US if items start being returned due to the tariff sh#t show.

Bel Aoros wrote:

The normal (Harfang Alpine) is ideal for snowy conditions, and also ok for rocky passages (actually i have the mono version, which is a slightly better for mix climbing if you used to climbing in mono-point configuration), they have also have the 3 piece harfangs which are even more oriented towards ski and snow. (lighter, more packable, even a version from full aluminium)

The Tech is for vertical Ice/Mix climbing, it has replaceable front points, not ideal for snowy conditions/ski touring. 

What i like a lot better in the Harfang series, is that you can easily change the front pieces, without cutting the old dyneema  and tying a new. 

Yeah, I played with the 3 piece some time ago and didn't like the feel of it.  Seemed a little much, a little awkward, with the extra piece.

The ability to easily swap the bails on the harfang series is really nice.  

The mono is so curious to me.  I wonder about where the offset single horizontal point leaves you wanting.  Maybe a long icy traverse?

Terry E wrote:

One might want to read this thread and the tariff complications involving steel products. Someone mentions that “De Minimus” (no tax on shipments under $800) is going away May 2.

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/200714353/tariff-impact-on-hardware-imported-into-the-us

It will be a bummer if we cannot get the lower prices that Oliunid offers. I always wonder how they can sell at such greatly reduced prices compared with the US. Do US retailers really need to charge so much?  I am wondering if Oliunid may stop shipping to the US if items start being returned due to the tariff sh#t show.

The market for climbing equipment is much larger in Europe.  They sell at higher volumes, so they don't have to achieve the same profit margins to cover their fixed costs.

I heard years ago that a single store, Snell Sports in Chamonix, sells more ice tools than the entire US market.  I don't know if that is still true or not, but it's definitely big business in Europe.  

The Grivel Ski Tour has steel fronts, aluminum heels, a somewhat unique toe bail that levers/clips on the front of the boot rather than the back, and has the super good Grivel antibotts. Really good antibotts make a huge difference when booting for thousands of vertical feet in spring snow! 

Anyone using the Dynafit Mezzalama?

Wanted to follow up.  I ended up getting the Blue Ice Harfang monpoints.  So far so good-

Weight wise they are noticeable lighter and more compactable than my prior crampons but still feel plenty burly.

I had to buy the bigger toe bails for ski boots.  You have to buy these separately and swap them.  I will say that was a pain in the butt to do out of the box.  Really had to wrestle them off and do so working with your hands around very sharp crampons.  I think it is the kind of thing that once you get the bails off they are stretched a bit and changing them back wouldn't be bad.  But it was a quite annoying first interaction with the crampons.  

I was a bit worried about the center piece adjustment problem.  So I took them on and off the boots a ton of times in the house.  I also left them on the boots overnight and did some more off and ons afterwards to make sure it was stretched out and settled before first use in snow.  I didn't have a problem after using them.

Still need to properly put them through their paces on technical conditions.  The most significant thing I did so far is the avy gulch route on Mount Shasta.  This is a pretty basic ski mountaineer route with nothing particularly technical, but conditions were quite firm and I had them on my feet for half a day.  They felt solid.  

That mono point is kind of fun.  I was wondering if it would feel a little uneven with the 2 asymmetrical points, but not at all.  I kind like the feeling of it.  I look forward to playing with them on some technical sections.

Anyways liking them so far, thanks for all the feedback.