drytooling crappy sport route etiquette

Michael Catlett wrote:

You will get so much shit, even if that choss pile has never been climbed.  

As an alpine climber, I often wonder why WE don't do more to develop dry tooling specific areas. Other than the obvious answer that it takes money and time, why is there no development? Of course there are fewer alpine climbers and even fewer who focus on drytooling as compared to sport climbers, but still you would think a few areas would be developed. With the exception of hotbed ice climbing areas like Bird Mine (Ouray) Hyalite Canyon,  and a number in Canada, I can't think of many dry tooling areas. 

It sounds like we need a movment.

There has been a mini movement over the last few years in Provo, UT.  I would guess 25-30 new bolted pitches of mixed and dry have been bolted in the last few years here and more are being added each season. It is a dedicated ice climbing zone though, and not really any *good* rock climbing there. 

Fear not, brother jakob! In today’s day and age there’s an 80% they don’t say anything to you in person at all. It’s much more effective to take that rage they feel home and scream into the void that is X regional MP forum, a local fb climbing page, or maybe even Reddit. 

jakob miller wrote:

Joseph W. Dutton wrote:

. Just be prepared to be a martyr. 

if i dry tool this route, and the sport climbers cut my toptope - i die a martyr..  in a way, its like i never really die, kuz its for the movement... right?

I won’t tell my future children what you died for, I’ll tell them what you lived for. We will never forget. 

lol @ marc

If the OP is seriously concerned, then reach out to the FA. 

Marc801 C wrote:

Do not dry tool on ANY established rock climb. Period. Your opinions of the route are irrelevant.

Top response right here! 

Double J, are these routes along the Stairway wall and vicinity? That is a good place for them, though ice fall in the winter and rock fall in the summer is always a concern. Please share more about the locations. Go Movment!

Clean that choss pile up I say!

I'm going to take this even further: hear me out. North Table Mountain should be the new up and coming Front Range drytooling crag. 

A buddy of mine talked me into joining MP again because of some home area shenanigans. As I was reorienting myself with the site and checking out my past, I came across this recently posted photo of one of the crags I developed. 

Seems appropriate to post it up here. I can easily see those tools pulling of the crystals you pinch to climb. You can see one of my bolts too. 

None too happy with how things are going out there.

Edit: I can see my moniker and this picture being ironic. That isn't me.

The Exfoliator wrote:

A buddy of mine talked me into joining MP again because of some home area shenanigans. As I was reorienting myself with the site and checking out my past, I came across this recently posted photo of one of the crags I developed. 

Seems appropriate to post it up here. I can easily see those tools pulling of the crystals you pinch to climb. You can see one of my bolts too. 

None too happy with how things are going out there.

You should go out there with your big banana

John Clark wrote:

You should go out there with your big banana

???

The Exfoliator wrote:

???

I will never understand people who insist on making a point in a thread without reading the thread first

Marc801 C wrote:

Do not dry tool on ANY established rock climb. Period. Your opinions of the route are irrelevant.

Do it in January, then it’s a winter accent and totally kosher. If you can catch it in a flurry even better.

Joe Senderson wrote:

Do it in January, then it’s a winter accent and totally kosher. If you can catch it in a flurry even better.

I believe as long as you don't wear crampons Arc'teryx will even endorse it! (D7 IS in fact a crappy sport route)