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Dallas climbing?

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Oat eater · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2023 · Points: 0

Relocated from SoCal to Dallas area and will be here in the foreseeable future, said goodbye to bunch of amazing crags there but nonetheless I still need to climb outside here.. most recent discussion on this topic I can find is from 12 years ago… but apparently there’s mineral wall(TR), quartz(mixed), enchanted(mixed), & Wichita(trad).


Am I missing anything? Don’t really boulder and not into sport that much either, is there any other trad spots nearby(~5hours) ?


Also what’s the prime season for climbing here? Is it too hot to climb during summer, and how’s climbing in the winter?


And.. if anyone in Dallas is looking for gym partners let me know.. 

Zack · · DFW, TX · Joined May 2008 · Points: 439

Welcome to outdoor climbing purgatory. Most of the land in the state is private property, so even if there is rock, you can't access it.  It's probably limestone anyway around these parts, so trad options are more limited.

BUT since you want trad, then Enchanted Rock, Quartz, and the Wichitas are your friends.  

Additional spots within 5 hours drive:

Inks Ranch is open for select weekends and is adjacent to Enchanted Rock. Access Fund has the info: https://www.accessfund.org/inks-ranch

Robber's Cave in Oklahoma has some trad lines.

If you're in far north Dallas suburbs, 5~ hours travel time can put you in Arkansas.  Horseshoe Canyon Ranch has 100ish trad routes in addition to the abundance of sport lines.  Mount Magazine State Park has 30ish. Sam's Throne has a bunch. There are a few crags up there that might be within your suggested travel radius.

Summer is hot, but the rest of the year can be pretty mild as far as climbing is concerned.

Steve Williams · · The state of confusion · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 235

I was exiled there in 1982.  Get out as soon as you can!  (the only positives I can give about Tejas, is Big Bend national park, Guadalupe National Park, and South Padre Island).

Robert S · · Driftwood, TX · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 661

As someone who spent most of his life in Virginia and now lives in Texas and hates it, I encourage you to get out as soon as you can. Also, people here have this weird obsession with California and hating on it; there are even highway billboard signs trashing California. So get ready to be told to go back there unless you're full-on MAGA.

While you're stuck here, yes, you have trad at Enchanted Rock and the Wichitas. Mineral Wells is toproping with fixed hardware, which results in comically bad and frequently dangerous anchor setups.

Summers are bad unless you know where the shade is and can chase it. Winters are mostly mild with lots of good climbing days.

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