Questions regarding crowds and year round climbing conditions in NH

Curious if some locals could provide some beta on crowds and climbing conditions in the Waterville Valley/Rumney, N Conway, and Kancamangus areas get throughout the year, for both sport and trad. Send me a PM if you're up for it.  Thanks!

That is quite a broad question, it would be helpful if you could be a bit more specific as to what you are looking for and why!!!

For an equally broad response to the question as asked; for conditions--all those areas are pretty much the same--winter is cold and snowy ( though less so with global warming unfortunately)--ice and mixed climbing; spring can be wet and muddy, late April through mid-July the bugs can vary from unpleasant to miserable---but there will also be a fair number of decent days; summer is generally fairly hot and humid ( though not as much so as in the South), but, again, with good days mixed in; autumn almost always has the best and most consistent climbing conditions--but, being in New England --it does rain on occasion--sometimes a lot!!!

Crowds: All these areas are quite extensive with multiple crags within each. If the weather is good, Rumney will be busy to very busy, particularly on the weekends and, especially, at the lowest and most accessible crags---Meadows, Parking Lot, etc or the classics--Wimea, Bonsai, etc. Still if you search enough you will find some fairly empty bits of rock!!! I doubt if the Waterville or K Highway crags are ever crowded---you are much more likely to have any of those crags to yourself in any given day--except maybe Sundown. North Conway--specifically Cathedral, Whitehorse, and, to a lesser extent, Humphrey's Ledges can get fairly busy, especially on nice weekends and the classic routes, but rarely really crowded---can always find routes to get on even if there are lines on the few very popular routes ( and, on these, you can usually avoid the crowds by starting very early or late in the day ( if you climb fast enough).

You asked about 'sport or trad'---other than Rumney, the other areas are primarily trad, with some sport routes mixed in. Rumney is almost all sport.

Hope this helps.

Alan Rubinwrote:

That is quite a broad question, it would be helpful if you could be a bit more specific as to what you are looking for and why!!!

For an equally broad response to the question as asked; for conditions--all those areas are pretty much the same--winter is cold and snowy ( though less so with global warming unfortunately)--ice and mixed climbing; spring can be wet and muddy, late April through mid-July the bugs can vary from unpleasant to miserable---but there will also be a fair number of decent days; summer is generally fairly hot and humid ( though not as much so as in the South), but, again, with good days mixed in; autumn almost always has the best and most consistent climbing conditions--but, being in New England --it does rain on occasion--sometimes a lot!!!

Crowds: All these areas are quite extensive with multiple crags within each. If the weather is good, Rumney will be busy to very busy, particularly on the weekends and, especially, at the lowest and most accessible crags---Meadows, Parking Lot, etc or the classics--Wimea, Bonsai, etc. Still if you search enough you will find some fairly empty bits of rock!!! I doubt if the Waterville or K Highway crags are ever crowded---you are much more likely to have any of those crags to yourself in any given day--except maybe Sundown. North Conway--specifically Cathedral, Whitehorse, and, to a lesser extent, Humphrey's Ledges can get fairly busy, especially on nice weekends and the classic routes, but rarely really crowded---can always find routes to get on even if there are lines on the few very popular routes ( and, on these, you can usually avoid the crowds by starting very early or late in the day ( if you climb fast enough).

You asked about 'sport or trad'---other than Rumney, the other areas are primarily trad, with some sport routes mixed in. Rumney is almost all sport.

Hope this helps.

Appreciate the reply Alan, it was helpful!  

Regarding my weather questions....I am basically trying to understand (on average) what one could expect in terms of climbable days on rock per year. IE: if you lived in the waterville valley area, and are willing to drive about 90 minutes or so...roughly how many days could you get out on rock each year (I don't mind colder days or less than optimal conditions). I climb ice too, but its not my main interest, mainly looking for beta on rock climbing here.

And thanks for the info on crowds too! Good to know that they can be avoided.

Interesting. Are you assuming that you can climb on any given day--not limited by such things as work or family? Obviously each year is somewhat different, and things have been getting warmer --at least 'true winter' seems to be shorter--though not necessarily much drier. On average, though, from roughly mid-November to mid/late March you can't count on many days on rock--though you may get some ( and driving 90 minutes south from Waterville will probably get you to some small areas in southern NH ( Rock Rimmon in Manchester) and maybe even in MA, that might have somewhat better conditions). The rest of the year, though, if you aren't too particular about conditions--and depending on your 'bug tolerance' in spring/early summer, I'm guessing that you might be able to get on rock 50/60% of the days--at least to be able to get something in. Again, this is a very 'unscientific' guesstimate, though based living and climbing in New England ( though further south in the region) for over 60 years.

Several areas at Rumney are great in the winter if you have full sun.  But the difference between a truly clear sky and the dreaded milky haze is the difference between a T shirt and down parkas.  

To Ward's point - climbable days somewhat depends on your tolerance for cold. Also how hard you climb, as lots of overhanging hard crags are still good in the rain. Also you just need to be willing to walk. You can always find an empty wall at Rumney, but you may have to hike to crows nest to get it. Bigger issue is nice days lining up with days you're not working. 

Ehh depends on you really, the obvious answer is 365?  Sunny zero degree sport days psyched as fuck with a like minded partner can happen all winter if u find a partner and a project.  Your near grand junction, would you go to dyn shacks if it was 0 degrees 15 mph wind but sunny 

HBTHREEwrote:

Ehh depends on you really, the obvious answer is 365?  Sunny zero degree sport days psyched as fuck with a like minded partner can happen all winter if u find a partner and a project.  Your near grand junction, would you go to dyn shacks if it was 0 degrees 15 mph wind but sunny 

Yeah…not really obvious since it can be easily below zero and not sunny in the winter. If you don’t like the cold, don’t move to NE

Jonathan Chavoustiewrote:

Yeah…not really obvious since it can be easily below zero and not sunny in the winter. If you don’t like the cold, don’t move to NE

On them days I ice climb, but thats me and OP could've def climbed rock any day I've ice climbed. So the obvious answer being any day you wanted too rock climb you could, with a little bit of research even wknds with no crowds on good routes is possible all year. Looking at OP's ticks he'd have more trouble with rain days than cold days, sub 512 is still possible in torrential rain but more difficult. 

HBTHREEwrote:

On them days I ice climb, but thats me and OP could've def climbed rock any day I've ice climbed. So the obvious answer being any day you wanted too rock climb you could, with a little bit of research even wknds with no crowds on good routes is possible all year. Looking at OP's ticks he'd have more trouble with rain days than cold days, sub 512 is still possible in torrential rain but more difficult. 

It’s incredibly misleading to say that you can rock climb 365 days outside in New England. There are plenty of times it’s either too cold, cloudy, storming (rain/snow), or a combination of all three that rock climbing is completely out of the question. And when that is the case, ice isn’t always in when that happens. Ice season has been pushed out further into winter each year. Why say that you can do it “365 days a year”, when you actually can’t. The reality is that there are days you can climb in all seasons, but there are days you most certainly can’t. 

Ha it's a odd question I'll agree and not sure what the op is looking for? Ski patrol at  waterville? no wife, no kids 25 and wondering about days off and wants too crush? Rock climb Every day, no prob. The frozen bastards of rumney still around?? Team tough puts up routes all winter, those r fun days too! Some of my best days have been low pitch days. There's never been a day i can't climb, def shit days type 1, 2, 3 days but never a day I couldn't. The reality is u can stay in if u want or go out. Too cold or shity for u yes, for me yes haha. The closest I ever got on speed of life twas  -10 and wet not frozen, still waiting for them conditions again

Thanks for the info everyone, feel like I got some good beta here.

Most of the people around here in the northeast move to Colorado or other western areas. Why because the weather sucks in New England. 

By definition New England includes Rhode Island.  By definition climbing includes bouldering (usually).  There are very few days that it would be too cold to boulder at Lincoln Woods (or elsewhere).  Too wet maybe but not too cold.  I know its not what the OP had in mind but its an answer to the question as it is written.  

Realistically, it rains or is wet about half the days during the spring and summer. A lot of cliffs are slow to dry after rain. It's also buggy. And humid. In the fall the conditions improve until November. November to March, you might get the occasional day that is pleasant to climb, but if you don't have a flexible schedule it can be hard. Coming from Colorado, the conditions will probably seem abysmal.... For the AVERAGE climber. Those who are fanatics can make it work to climb on marginal days, especially if they have a wide open schedule to work around weather, but it won't always be enjoyable.

Most people in the east are kinda Jack/Jills of all trades. Climb primarily but hike, run, bike, ski, paddle, etc on the side because most simply can't climb whenever they want and have it be enjoyable or productive. 

Climbing in the east is great though- The climbing in the Adirondacks, VT, White Mountains and western Maine is, pitch by pitch , as good as anywhere. But the weather is problematic. 

Ira OMCwrote:

Realistically, it rains or is wet about half the days during the spring and summer. A lot of cliffs are slow to dry after rain. It's also buggy. And humid. In the fall the conditions improve until November. November to March, you might get the occasional day that is pleasant to climb, but if you don't have a flexible schedule it can be hard. Coming from Colorado, the conditions will probably seem abysmal.... For the AVERAGE climber.

Among others, these are certainly part of the reasons we left New England 25 years ago for Salt Lake City.

To distill my fellow New Englanders’ feedback down to a few succinct words—you need to be an opportunist here in the NE, have a healthy understanding of suffering to have fun (type II fun is part of the New England way of life), and have a plan B or C tucked up your sleeve.