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BD ultralights in horizontals?

Original Post
Brian E · · New England · Joined Mar 2005 · Points: 363

Hi Everyone,

I had the rare opportunity of climbing with a bonafide OG today. He has established many routes among the crags on the razor sharp quartzite rock where we live. These routes typically protect with horizontal cams. We used his rack and when he pulled it out I was surprised to see many, many rigid stem friends with long cords. He informed me they put less force on the rock than a camalot because much of the force is transferred to the stem. It peeked my curiosity. Has anyone tested BD ultralights in horizontals with sharp edges? Wouldn't the nature of these cams stem, which is not "metal" increase their risk for cutting? Please note, the quartzite in my area is sharp and steep, but not too different than the Gunks. 

Mr Rogers · · Pollock Pines and Bay area CA · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 77

Hopefully those were all sporting the "gunks tie off".
The stems were known to break in horizontals if attaching to the end of the stem. Fulcrum forces can be yuuuuge.

No onto the "cutting" of the dyneema in the UL's
Dyneema is extremely hard to cut. Could you damage the cam and need to retire it? sure. But actually cutting through the dyneema stem would be damn near impossible in a fall IMO.

Brian E · · New England · Joined Mar 2005 · Points: 363

The rigid stem cams all had the "gunks tie off". Thanks for your answer

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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