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Forbidden peak beta. Timing and permits

Original Post
wisam · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 60

Looking to do the west ridge on forbidden peak in June And have a few things to figure out.

1. we’d like to do it when we could avoid the cat scratch gully Since it sounds less desirable than a straightforward, snow climb. Thoughts on ideal timing to hit it early enough to have a straightforward approach while being late enough to not have snow on the route?  We were thinking mid to early June

2. we are more than capable of doing it in a day, but I think the experience of camping in Boston basin sounds more fun  Haven’t checked yet, but based on what I know, permits are pretty hard to come by, what’s the likelihood of getting a walk up permit on a weekday?  Are there any alternative camping options that would set us up to do the West Ridge if we can’t get a campsite at Boston basin?

Dave Schultz · · San Diego, CA · Joined Nov 2021 · Points: 5

If you can, you should C2C Forbidden peak. You'll get plenty of scenery and you'll avoid having overnight gear which would otherwise diminish the awesomeness that is Boston Basin. 

If you were thinking TFT, I can see worthiness of a bivy up there on route or as a camp-to-camp.

For Forbidden, you should be fine in late-May (pretty early season) or June. Late-June is probably when that gulley starts to go out, but it certainly gets climbed well into Sept/Oct with shenanigans. Unless fresh/recent snow, route is probably snow free (enough) pretty early.

Prime skiing up there is in Apr-May - thus best snow conditions for the approach. 

No real alternate sites, though you could do Quien Sabe on a different day (before/after) with a camp in the alpine - that gives you another area to consider for the permit.

Permits are obviously hit or miss, though mid-week you're probably fine. It's busy, but not THAT busy, especially mid-week. 

If you're flexible and strike out with the permit, you can always C2C, plus you have Eldorado and other incredible climbs/hikes all over that area, giving you another chance to try for a permit a day or two later.

The area is magical, good luck.

IJMayer · · Guemes Island, WA · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 350

No other camping options for west ridge/Boston basin. I think you can see how many are left online.

In 2021 we struck out on permits for a Tuesday but got permits for eldorado and had a great time. 

Jimmy Bricker · · Landenberg, PA · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 35

We did this in sept. We loved the overnight experience. Great views, easy water, vault toilet. We ended up getting stormed off the second to last pitch and were very happy to have a camp to return too.  The bergschrund wasnt too bad to hop over, we didnt need the picket. That time of year there were more blueberries we could eat. Permit midweek wasnt an issue.  Tried rapping some pitches and should have downclimbed/down lead more. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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