Development In The Bay Area?

Just moved to Bay Area. What is the general ethics of the region as well as status of continued bolted development of the Bay Area? To my knowledge, active development seems to be non-existent or possibly entirely under the radar.

As someone who developed in the Front range and Northern Arizona I understand that opportunities to develop in this region are comparatively scarce. Any beta on any crag within a hour to two hours drive of South Bay would be greatly appreciated. Hiking distance is not an issue. To any existing developers, I can mule your gear anywhere and pay for gas if you wanna show me around. I am also not above using a 12 pack as a bribe if necessary. 

Lol when I tried finding better rocks to develop I would have people give me hints, but no one wanted to just tell me where shit is. It's been a few years now and I don't remember where the rumored crags were anymore. Expect to adventure. 

There's stuff to develop in the South Bay for sure, but it may require an adventurous attitude to discover. 

Stick to the South Bay. We’ve got it covered up here in the north bay. Thanks. No, seriously, you are on the right track. I can’t speak to the South Bay, but there is a community of developers up here and we all sort of connect and low key discuss. Kinda know who is working what areas and so on. Your best bet is to find out who is working in your area and try to hook up with them. The guys I know always appreciate anyone who wants to hike in heavy gear and sit around on belay all day to put up a single pitch.

Also, there is just not much left that even can be bolted. Almost any potential line around here turns out to be either too short to bother or too chossy to be safe.

Ricky who responded above is always looking for help in his area. You might want to connect with him.

this post is as bold as it is funny

almostradwrote:

this post is as bold as it is funny

I was thinking it's more "ick" than bold, personally. 

Brandon Rwrote:

I was thinking it's more "ick" than bold, personally. 

As a developer, I agree

Comically direct. I can't think of a worse way to announce yourself to the portion of the "community" actually involved in development. I suggest deleting your post, then just climbing in the area for a couple years like a normal person, which will lead to authentic interactions that will point you towards what you want. Sincerely - "as a developer."

bryanswrote:

Comically direct. I can't think of a worse way to announce yourself to the portion of the "community" actually involved in development. I suggest deleting your post, then just climbing in the area for a couple years like a normal person, which will lead to authentic interactions that will point you towards what you want. Sincerely - "as a developer."

Excuse my naivety, but im confused what was comical about asking developers on public forum the various ethics of the region? Certainly direct, but my questions were related to simply getting a general overview of the area. Trying to understand the ethics of local area in my opinion is vital, and requesting information on public forum is a perfectly acceptable way to do so. Earnestly asking if anyone needs help with their development or has beta on a nearby climbing area just doesn’t strike me as abrasive either. I’ve had several private DM’s sent to me from locals that have been welcoming and very informative.

I hope to make those authentic relationships you mentioned throughout the region in person soon. I apologize if I’m not doing this “like a normal person.” I’m simply using this website to learn, make new friends and hopefully climb or develop outdoors with new people. Also I’ll definitely take “as a developer” out I wasn’t trying to come off as an ass.

Also I’m genuinely being sincere when I say this response isn’t combative, I appreciate any response. 

Ricky Harlinewrote:

Lol when I tried finding better rocks to develop I would have people give me hints, but no one wanted to just tell me where shit is. It's been a few years now and I don't remember where the rumored crags were anymore. Expect to adventure. 

There's stuff to develop in the South Bay for sure, but it may require an adventurous attitude to discover. 

Thanks for the info Ricky!

Iain Macdonaldwrote:

Excuse my naivety, but im confused what was comical about asking developers on public forum the various ethics of the region? Certainly direct, but my questions were related to simply getting a general overview of the area. Trying to understand the ethics of local area in my opinion is vital, and requesting information on public forum is a perfectly acceptable way to do so. Earnestly asking if anyone needs help with their development or has beta on a nearby climbing area just doesn’t strike me as abrasive either. I’ve had several private DM’s sent to me from locals that have been welcoming and very informative.

I hope to make those authentic relationships you mentioned throughout the region in person soon. I apologize if I’m not doing this “like a normal person.” I’m simply using this website to learn, make new friends and hopefully climb or develop outdoors with new people. Also I’ll definitely take “as a developer” out I wasn’t trying to come off as an ass.

Also I’m genuinely being sincere when I say this response isn’t combative, I appreciate any response. 

Hi Iain, I'm not a hater! I'll clarify: In my experience - which may differ from yours - development can be a private, secretive, territorial enterprise, with many developers sharing those traits. Some of them might be threatened or turned off by a newcomer showing up and saying "show me your undeveloped lines, I can't find them on my own, but I want to get the first ascents for myself." If I saw someone do this where I live, I would not tell you about development opportunities, and I might even ask my partners to be on the lookout for you.

In contrast, had you said these same things to me in person at a crag after we'd gotten to know each other organically, and I had a feel for you, I would probaby share any opportunities. It is VERY hard work to get people into development, which you must know, as most people would rather work on a soft 12a they can spray about (no judgment, sending and spraying is fun) than spend the day cleaning a 5.10 or 5.11. You come off like you have an itchy drill finger (and not just to me, judging by the replies), so perhaps start a new thread that focuses on how you want partners and to check out new areas and "ethics", if those are actually your goals.

bryanswrote:

Hi Iain, I'm not a hater! I'll clarify: In my experience - which may differ from yours - development can be a private, secretive, territorial enterprise, with many developers sharing those traits. Some of them might be threatened or turned off by a newcomer showing up and saying "show me your undeveloped lines, I can't find them on my own, but I want to get the first ascents for myself." If I saw someone do this where I live, I would not tell you about development opportunities, and I might even ask my partners to be on the lookout for you.

In contrast, had you said these same things to me in person at a crag after we'd gotten to know each other organically, and I had a feel for you, I would probaby share any opportunities. It is VERY hard work to get people into development, which you must know, as most people would rather work on a soft 12a they can spray about (no judgment, sending and spraying is fun) than spend the day cleaning a 5.10 or 5.11. You come off like you have an itchy drill finger (and not just to me, judging by the replies), so perhaps start a new thread that focuses on how you want partners and to check out new areas and "ethics", if those are actually your goals.

Fair enough! I wasn’t my intent to imply that I’m trying to steal FA’s, bolt someone else’s crag, or give the impression that I’m an itchy bolter. I’ll shoot you a PM, thanks for the feedback!

Is there any unclimbed rock left in the bay that’s worth climbing? Seemed like there was a revival of sorts during the pandemic when all the gyms were locked down. 

Check out Courtright Reservoir. It’s a haul out there. But it’s maybe 10% developed. Worth getting some miles on the routes and meeting ppl before drilling.

Or if you want the opposite, head to Tahoe. They welcome climbers from the Bay Area, especially those with a Bosch in hand.  

I can see both sides. It’s fairly harmless to ask, but most active developers are about as likely to reveal the secret crag as a poker player is to show their cards. Not till they’re done playing with ‘em, that’s for sure!

Tony Lobaywrote:Or if you want the opposite, head to Tahoe. They welcome climbers from the Bay Area, especially those with a Bosch in hand.

Oh, that’s good!

Tony Lobaywrote:

Is there any unclimbed rock left in the bay that’s worth climbing? 

Unequivocally yes. I have seen pictures of some cool hidden gems and heard rumors of many more. I will not help disclose them.

Or if you want the opposite, head to Tahoe. They welcome climbers from the Bay Area, especially those with a Bosch in hand.  

Every pass over the Sierra is full of rock. The one I live on (4) maybe has the least of any of the passes, and it's still quite a lot.