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Paul Muehls & Old Timer Needles Climbers “Bible” whereabouts

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James Parr · · Black Hills · Joined Jan 2022 · Points: 1,136

I am curious about the whereabouts of the “Bible” that the ol’ Needles climbers would write down their exploits in. I am nerd for history and would love to see it or if there is a digital version somewhere that would be great to take a look at as well. Thank you! 

John Gill · · Colorado · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 27

I climbed there from the late 1950s on and off through the early 1970s and don't recall such a "Bible". Bob Kamps poorly-bound AAC guidebook came out during that period, and later other guides appeared. Maybe the Conns kept records. Jan is still alive I think.

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

I climbed in the Needles for a similar time period as John.  My first year was 1963 or 64, and my yearly visits lasted through the early 1980's.  I didn't know of any "Bible" either, although if Paul Muehl was keeping one I might not have known about it.  Kamps had meticulous records of all his climbs (not just the Needles), and John kept track of his boulder problems.  Kamps' guidebook was the first update to the Conn's accounts, although I think Dennis Hornung published something less extensive around the same time.    I doubt that the Conns were up to date even when we were active as they had shifted their attention to Jewel Cave.

James Parr · · Black Hills · Joined Jan 2022 · Points: 1,136

Thank you both for responding! Not only is it nice to hear something back but also incredible to hear back from two gentlemen who are larger than life. I think this book was around in the 1980s. I read about it in Pete deLannoy's article in the The Alpinist where he says, "Until the 1980s a steady stream of climbers spent their summer evenings in the Muehls' cozy cabin along the main drag of Custer, South Dakota, eating home-cooked meals and drinking one-too-many beers or sharing Loretta's chokecherry wine, while scheming and planning for new routes or recording their daily exploits in the "Bible," a faded, blue, cloth-backed journal.

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

I didn't know about the "Bible," although I did attend some of Paul's soirees. Paul and Loretta are gone, sadly.  Paul Piana and Dennis Hornung would be the obvious choices for folks still around who might know more. Perhaps the folks at the Black Hills Climber's Coalition are in contact with other old-timers who might know something.

Tim McCabe · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 130

I got to see the bible, spent a few nights sitting with Paul and Loretta in their living room, me pouring over the bible Paul never letting a cigarette get more then half done before butt lighting the next.

https://cdn2.apstatic.com/photos/climb/111818884_medium_1494305874.jpg

I never saw Paul without a cig in his mouth or hand and he never let one go out without having butt lit the next. I was told that he lived with a lot of shit from the war in Vietnam.  

I now someone who might know what happened to the bible, I'll ask.

Craeg Dubh · · grand jct. · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 120
rgold wrote:

I didn't know about the "Bible," although I did attend some of Paul's soirees. Paul and Loretta are gone, sadly.  Paul Piana and Dennis Hornung would be the obvious choices for folks still around who might know more. Perhaps the folks at the Black Hills Climber's Coalition are in contact with other old-timers who might know something.

I would put a strong second on contacting Paul Piana. If anyone knows, he does.

Mikel Madsen · · Rapid City SD( raised) and… · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 8,667

The Bible is Paul Muehls Blue Book. 

Jim Slichter · · Hill City, SD · Joined Jul 2002 · Points: 1,202

James - I had it at one time and spent a fair amount of time transcribing into a digital format.  Not sure who has the original copy now.  HMU sometime this summer and I will at least get you a digital copy.    
Jim

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Wyoming, Montana, Dakotas
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