Soloing Mt.Moran via CMC route

I am looking for anyone with info on soloing Mt.Moran via the CMC route. I am looking to go on the last week of July or the first week of August. I am aware of having to rent a canoe/paddle board and the rent tape of permits. I have a 70-meter rappelling with all of cords, slings, and gear to set up for a decent. To give you some context on my climbing experience, some of the peaks I have soloed include Granite Peak via south face/east ridge, Grand Teton via Owen Spaulding, and Mt. Cowen via the standard route. I can lead 5.10d on sport and 5.7 on trad, being able to follow 5.11b on sport and 5.8 on trad.

How hard is it to solo the CMC route and what is the crux of the route? What would be some good solo alpine climbs to do to train up for Mt.Moran that are near the area?  Where is the best place to rent a paddle board or a canoe?

Also, if someone is interested in going this summer let me know. I would be interested in going with other people if they want to join.

I have gone up and down it without a rope, it really isn't that technically hard, just that it has exposure, and loose rock throughout.  Also, you can do the hike around if you don't want to rent a canoe, it makes for an overland adventure if you don't have the water hookup or want to pay the $ on the boat. I think there are rentals in moose, but unsure, call the outfitter there (bike shop?) to find out. 

I would say, get your trad grades up, and your alpine soloing ascents up as well and the mileage will help. if your max is 5.7 and you want to solo a 5.5 there isn't a lot of room for error....What if the crux is wet?  What if the easier climbing is buried in snow and you have to climb some 5.6 or a move of 5.7 to get around it?  There is some micro route finding to be had on the CMC, but it really isn't that bad if you have a good nose for finding the way and your head is good to go at the same time, but a margin of error is always a benefit. 

Where do you live to recommend more routes?

Sorry, I don't 'get' that you can "follow 11b" on sport but only 5.8 on trad---in terms of grade it really shouldn't make much ( if any) difference if you are following whether it is sport or trad ( well, ok maybe a bit more work cleaning gear than unclipping bolts but not multiple grades worth!!!). Honestly, that disconnect, makes me concerned that you are considering soloing a route as remote and 'alpine' as the CMC.

I would do it with a partner first before soloing. Too many places to get off route into much harder moves and loose rock. Climbing back up Drizzlepuss felt a lot harder than 5.7 but I may have been too far south. The descent felt weirdly hard compared to the ascent but you are basically just wandering around this enormous face and I probably went a sub-optimal way. Might be hard to portage from String to Leigh solo - and if there is wind that would be really annoying to solo canoe at the end of a long day. Also sussing the trail to Drizzlepuss took a while the night before - you want to get there early. The CMC campsite is spectacular and the whole experience is special for the Tetons (canoe, portage, beautiful campsite, remote, Drizzlepuss and real routefinding). If you do it right the moves are trivial but you might not do it right first time - it's not Owen-Spaulding.

crux is downclimbing drizzlepuss to access the CMC face (easier on the return since its familiar terrain and you are going up it).  i have done it onsight solo years ago, there are some great comments on the CMC route page from myself and others regarding soloing it you could find and read.  i have also onsight soloed the other peaks you mentioned (granite, cowen, grand via OS) and would say CMC route onsight solo is definitely a step up from cowen and grand via OS, maybe similar to granite but i may have been a bit off-route cause parts of granite felt tougher than i expected.  

Hope this helps.  Also, YGD.  

I climbed the South face right then went to summit ( stupid- huge number of additional pitches requiring free solo to get up there. Spent the night). Five to six hours down soloing  the route you want to do ( never having been on it). Easy but  exposed and quite long.   It is hard to know what 5.10d sport but only 5.7 trad means. I think you are taking unnecessary risks outside normal climbing limits if you climb 5.7 trad but want to free solo and down climb this route. It is in an alpine setting where loose rock, getting off route at times, wetness and storms ( that you can’t see coming) are  normal and expected. To rappel would take forever and require leaving a lot of sling and gear so you are forced to rapidly down climb to get off at a reasonable time. You mention a rope. If you bring a rope I suggest you bring a partner your first time up and if you think it’s the best then free solo it the next time. 

Thank you for all your responses to my post. I did not expect so much traction for this post and I will take into consideration the advice that you all have given. The reason I was considering soloing this is because I don't think I'll be able to find a partner by the time I want to do this climb. The other consideration is that alpine partners are seemingly impossible to find. Do any of you have suggestions for solo alpine climbs that would be in my level that are in or around the Tetons? 

Alan Rubin wrote:

Sorry, I don't 'get' that you can "follow 11b" on sport but only 5.8 on trad---in terms of grade it really shouldn't make much ( if any) difference if you are following whether it is sport or trad ( well, ok maybe a bit more work cleaning gear than unclipping bolts but not multiple grades worth!!!). Honestly, that disconnect, makes me concerned that you are considering soloing a route as remote and 'alpine' as the CMC.

The reason I posted this is because from my experience, trad and sport climbing are two different animals. With trad climbing, there's a lot more crack technique that goes into it. With sport its strength based climbing from my experience. If I was disconnected as you say I am, I would not be on here asking questions about this route months in advance and doing my homework for this route. However, I thank you for your response and I posted on why I am considering soling it. 

Ben P wrote:

Thank you for all your responses to my post. I did not expect so much traction for this post and I will take into consideration the advice that you all have given. The reason I was considering soloing this is because I don't think I'll be able to find a partner by the time I want to do this climb. The other consideration is that alpine partners are seemingly impossible to find. Do any of you have suggestions for solo alpine climbs that would be in my level that are in or around the Tetons? 

def a step up from your prior experience

someone wise (Steve house) once said not being able to find a partner is never a reason to go soloing. maybe since you’re considering all of this stuff months in advance you could use that time to try and line out a partner? 

Ben P you have to nurture and grow alpine partners. Have patience, talk some fit buddy into something, get them hooked and you're good to go.

It's the time honored way.

Ben P wrote:

Thank you for all your responses to my post. I did not expect so much traction for this post and I will take into consideration the advice that you all have given. The reason I was considering soloing this is because I don't think I'll be able to find a partner by the time I want to do this climb. The other consideration is that alpine partners are seemingly impossible to find. Do any of you have suggestions for solo alpine climbs that would be in my level that are in or around the Tetons? 

Decades ago I found it easy to find partners at the AAC climber's ranch.  Perhaps it still is?

climber pat wrote:

Decades ago I found it easy to find partners at the AAC climber's ranch.  Perhaps it still is?

I looked on the site and it says that there's a partner board at the climber ranch. I'll have to call them and put my name on the board. Thanks for the suggestion.

I’ve lived around Jackson for a few years and I think your partner search will get easier in the summer, a couple weeks prior to your trip. More climbers around looking to do similar stuff.

I was going to say if you’ve soloed OS and Granite, and can get up 10+ you’d be fine, but I think when you are ready - you’ll just go.

The down climb off Drizzlepuss is exposed loose rock and marbles. Def heads up terrain. I thought the upper head wall slab was super fun with plenty of good clean rock and holds. Gotta reverse that so if down soloing 4th/5th cl slab sounds sketch, go with a rope and a friend.

There’s several rental companies in town that’ll drop your vessel off at String Lake. I went with my own SUP, dry bags! and bivied at the CMC site. Epic trip. If the winds are crankin across Leigh Lake, it could get nasty.

Edit to add: I thought Skyline Arete was a fun solo. Heard good things about Cube Point (GTNP) and the Beehive Traverse near Big Sky. But as I said above, when you’re ready, you’ll know it. +1 on what Tanner says below about asking the forum for opinions. Soloing is an extremely personal endeavor that requires hyper focus, confidence, trust in your ability and some research helps. Won’t get much of that from this thread. Good luck on your decision. 

Cherokee Nunes wrote:

Ben P you have to nurture and grow alpine partners. Have patience, talk some fit buddy into something, get them hooked and you're good to go.

It's the time honored way.

Easier said than done, that's for sure. I've tried cultivating partners, but my generation is flaky and doesn't think long term. I don't think I've ever met a long term thinker who was around my age (I'm in my early 30's btw). I didn't get into climbing until my late 20's, at that point its usually too late to make friends. I know that's not an excuse to go solo, but I'm not getting younger. I've tired patience and nurturing but that's not how the world works anymore it seems. However, in this case I would like to proven wrong and find some good people. 

On an unrelated note, do you know any good climbs around the greater Yellowstone area that would be a good step up for me?    

Not me, no. I've only done a couple climbs in the Tetons and a few in the Winds. All of them were 5.8 or harder.

this thread has two immediate red flags reading it as someone with fairly extensive alpine soloing experience. The first and most glaring would be you asking the internet full of bots and strangers if you should solo something or not. If you’re genuinely prepared you know that and carry the confidence required to succeed, I would certainly never make a life changing decision based on faceless comments online. The second one would be you listing the Owen Spaulding as one of your “solos” and an indicator that you could be ready. Might be a hot take but the OS is nearly entirely 4th class and under with maybe a single 5th class move and not at all an indicator of being alpine solo ready. Theres a few ways to ramp up to a big solo to make sure you’re ready for the commitment and none of them are found online. Good luck with whatever you choose 

Ben P wrote:

On an unrelated note, do you know any good climbs around the greater Yellowstone area that would be a good step up for me?    

I thought the East Ridge of Disappointment Peak in GTNP was a fun solo. Good rock, great views and a down- climbable descent. 

Chad Namolik wrote:

I’ve lived around Jackson for a few years and I think your partner search will get easier in the summer, a couple weeks prior to your trip. More climbers around looking to do similar stuff.

During my research I found that the climbers ranch has a partner board there. Is it any good for finding partners, and should I put my name on the board now or when it gets closer to summer?

If going with someone is suggested for someone of my climbing ability, then I'm all for it.  

Ben P wrote:

During my research I found that the climbers ranch has a partner board there. Is it any good for finding partners, and should I put my name on the board now or when it gets closer to summer?

The GTCR doesn't open until June so you'll have to wait until at least then.

Worth a try for sure!

Tanner James wrote:

.........The second one would be you listing the Owen Spaulding as one of your “solos” and an indicator that you could be ready. Might be a hot take but the OS is nearly entirely 4th class and under with maybe a single 5th class move and not at all an indicator of being alpine solo ready.

Is debatable that there's "a single 5th class move". Maybe two. More if it's icy and you're in approach shoes. Guides have been injured and killed on the OS so none should downplay the risk in the alpine even on 4th class rock (for readers who might misread 4th class as a "low-risk" adventure). 

Oddly, in the 2023 edition of the guidebook, Renny increased the rating of the OS's double chimney to 5.5. But, he kept the overall rating at 5.4. If anyone can explain that, I'd like to hear the reasoning. He also jacked the Upper Exum to 5.6. 

As for Moran, the CMC is soloed with some regularity. It's has all the same hazards as any alpine climb at 5.5. Drizzlepuss is not very difficult but the best downclimb line isn't obvious. Follow the ledges and steps down to the NE and you will find your way at the bottom. The CMC is exposed but good holds are everywhere. IMO, if you've soloed the Upper Exum and climb 5.7s with ease, this is worth a solo. Canoe rentals are pricy in Jackson Hole but that's the best way to travel. Avoid the bushwhacking. That's possible but best left to those who know where they're going and have a very specific reason to not take a boat across the lake. And who have 5 hours or more to get to the base of the route.