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Best longer moderate to climb in end of April at Red Rocks, considering temperatures at that time

Original Post
John R · · Flatlands · Joined May 2019 · Points: 1

We will be at Red Rocks April 29-30, one day to do some short sport climbs and one day to do a longer easier moderate 5.fun trad route.

So, checking which routes would be best for late April/early May. 

(we would do Armatron, but looks to be too hot........open to anything 5.6 to 5.9, appropriate for end of April.....Solar Slab, Johnny Vegas, Birdland or something similar)

Thanks in advance!

Sirius · · Oakland, CA · Joined Nov 2003 · Points: 660

Hard to beat Epinephrine. 

Blaine Hartness · · North Carolina · Joined May 2021 · Points: 71

Lady Luck is pretty fun with a kinda involved descent if you don't know the way. 2 fun pitches of 5.7 and the rest is cruiser 5.5 slab. Frigid Air Buttress, Dark Shadows, and Frogland should be in the shade although DS and Frogland might have some early morning sun for a bit. There's also some fun stuff on Necromancer wall. DS to the summit of Mescalito is pretty sick. We took the Northern descent and got down in 1.5 hours our first time doing it. Puts you 15 minutes up-canyon from DS

John R · · Flatlands · Joined May 2019 · Points: 1

thanks folks!

Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,814

Blaine’s suggestions are good.

phylp phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 1,137

Blaine’s suggestions are good but might be ambitious depending on how fast you can move. Some alternatives:

Alternative to Frigid Air Buttress:  do Fold out on Necromancer, and then do Back in Time on the Way Down. Add in sensuous Mortician. With a 70 M rope and some careful finagling with a rope extension, you can get down from SM with a single 70. Or do Foldout, come down, do Hop Route, come down.

Alternative to Lady Luck:

As above, you can combine some shorter gear routes on Lotta Balls Wall/Romper Room for a 6-9 or more! pitch day. The descent from LB Wall top is straightforward and it’s fast back to the base. Black Magic and Lotta Balls are both terrific, Trihardral is fun.  

Lot’s of nice stuff on RomperRoom. A longer route over there is Algae on Parade, which descends in the First Creek Slabs Gully, but enters it much lower down than Lady Luck.

 One advantage to this is the routes are short enough that you don’t have to carry food/water. Just lunch in comfort between routes at the base. 

Yukon Cornelius · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 0

do not do ANY of the ones you wrote in your first post. Armatron, Solar Slab, Johnny Vegas, and Birdland all bake in the sun all day long. it sounds like you know that, just reiterating.

MattH · · CO mostly · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 1,354

How much does the off season thin things out? Does the scarcity of shaded routes offset things enough that you're no better climbing something like Crimson Chrysalis in May than in March? I've been saving that one for a 'low crowd' time but I'm not sure that exists...

William Elliot · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 541
MattH wrote:

How much does the off season thin things out? Does the scarcity of shaded routes offset things enough that you're no better climbing something like Crimson Chrysalis in May than in March? I've been saving that one for a 'low crowd' time but I'm not sure that exists...

The mega classics will still have people trying them through to June-ish but everything else should get much quieter. If the temps hit 95-100 you should be able to get on almost anything you want.

Ashort · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 56
MattH wrote:

How much does the off season thin things out? Does the scarcity of shaded routes offset things enough that you're no better climbing something like Crimson Chrysalis in May than in March? I've been saving that one for a 'low crowd' time but I'm not sure that exists...

Climb it in june or july. The hike across the desert is hot and it sucks, but it is pleasant on route. Standard desert tricks to keep cool help a lot. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
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