Haul Lines: Static vs Dynamic

Hi everyone,

I've been doing some reading on haul lines for big walls. Some people recommend using a static line because this makes hauling easier and it's safer for ascending fixed ropes (e.g., Chris McNamara). Some people recommend using a dynamic haul line so that you have a back up for your lead rope (e.g., Erik Sloan). Both seem like good reasons to me and so I'm guessing that there's genuine trade-off here. In the likely event that what's best depends on what you're doing, I'm planning on doing the Yosemite trade routes (South Face of Washington Column, The Prow, West Face of Leaning Tower, RNWF of Half Dome, The Nose). What do you find works best?

Interested to hear your thoughts, thanks for your help!

Static every time. The chances of you damaging your rope in such a way that you require an entire backup rope is extremely low. Sure, you might need to trim the end, but you're not going to be doing any rope-stretching pitches.

I’ve used static haul ropes on my last 4 walls. I feel like there’s a noticeable difference in hauling efficiency. Also less likely (but still possible) that you could core shot your haul line while dragging it over sharp features.  Static haul lines make me feel warm and fuzzy. 

Static.

I just got an 11mm armor tech rope from Blue Water. It is a super static rope- stretches like a steel cable, but easy to work with. Has a double sheath for amazing abrasion resistance. The technora sheath is crazy strong. These ropes are mostly used in rescue applications- think firefighters going into burning buildings. I’ll be using this on big walls starting next week!

I'm trying to think of a situation where a core shot in your lead line would be catastrophic without a second dynamic line. Most of the situations I can think of are still solvable, either to continue up or bail. 

Core shots in your lead rope can happen, although it's never happened to me.
I heard a story about some guys on Native Son core shot their rope in a very bad spot but figured out a very ingenious way to still use the rope.

It would take a very advanced wall climber to figure out what they did.

Any of you wanker want to try to figure it out?

This might be a good topic for another thread.

Just lead solo the second half of every pitch?

I've done this with a core shot like 20m into a rope for a long pitch

1. Tie off the core shot however you prefer.

2. Climber ties into both ends

3. Climb & be belayed using the short end, clipping only that side.

4. Just before the knot reaches the belayer, climber clips both ropes for a few bomber pieces

5. When the knot reaches the belayer, belayer ties climber off, switches belay to long side. (wait for test to untie backup)

6. Climber unties and drops short side. (Test the belayer has you correctly before untie)

7. Continue climbing. Belayer must eventually do a knot-pass.

This gives close to full length on the rope, minus the distance between your bomber pieces for the swap-over

Follower needs to either be jumaring or top-rope-solo to follow, with a knot pass.

If the start traverses, it'll need to be re-aided by the follower (or if freeing, with the risk of a wild fall)

Static lines for hauling, fixing, and tagline.  Dynamic rope only for leading/following (obviously it'll wind up being used to fix from time to time, but certainly only one stretchy rope). 

Malcolm Jarvis wrote:

I've done this with a core shot like 20m into a rope for a long pitch

1. Tie off the core shot however you prefer.

2. Climber ties into both ends

3. Climb & be belayed using the short end, clipping only that side.

4. Just before the knot reaches the belayer, climber clips both ropes for a few bomber pieces

5. When the knot reaches the belayer, belayer ties climber off, switches belay to long side. (wait for test to untie backup)

6. Climber unties and drops short side. (Test the belayer has you correctly before untie)

7. Continue climbing. Belayer must eventually do a knot-pass.

This gives close to full length on the rope, minus the distance between your bomber pieces for the swap-over

Follower needs to either be jumaring or top-rope-solo to follow, with a knot pass.

If the start traverses, it'll need to be re-aided by the follower (or if freeing, with the risk of a wild fall)

This is pretty dang clever.

Oh yeah, dang! Very nice! My solution is different but I think this is better in most situations.

There needs to be a few pretty bomber pieces 20 meters (using the example given) out. It really does need to be bomber since the leader is climbing above those pieces with nothing below them to the anchor.