Ming
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Mar 27, 2025
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Nov 2010
· Points: 2,055
Hello community - wondering what are some long (more than 4 pitches) routes that are mixed that people would recommend in the 5.8-5.11 range. Things like Chrymson Chrysalis and so forth. Alex Honnold just recommended Gift of the Wind Gods and I've done Inti Watana before. I find mix climbs to be the best for me personally as the bolts do give some reassurance and they gave me the courage to try harder routes (never would've tried NightCrawler if it wasn't for the bolts and it was a blast!). Plan so far is to do Ginger Cracks to Blade Runner but would like to hear others or link ups like that.
It sounds like you're looking for routes where the cruxes are bolted? Because don't most multipitch routes fit the bill of "mixed" as long as there's a few bolts on route?
Woman of Mountain Dreams is also on Mt Wilson, has a fully bolted crux pitch, and is a total adventure. Most of the routes on Black Velvet also qualify - Only the Good Die Young is a lesser known gem with bolted cruxes.
Ming
·
Mar 27, 2025
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Nov 2010
· Points: 2,055
Bolted cruxes is ideal for sure! More a general suggestion of quality routes that may feel a tad spicy but is actually safe (somewhat at least). Thanks for the suggestion there. I'll check it out.
A J
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Mar 27, 2025
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Feb 2021
· Points: 0
Times Up (12a) only has one pitch of 12a, but it’s all bolted and so is the 11a pitch on it, and it climbs like a trad route. I haven’t done it, but Only the Good Die Young (11b) also I think has bolted cruxes.
Bird hunter buttress is a little harder with worse rock than crimson chris, but in a way cooler location. The important bolts have been rebolted and I would highly recomend!
heads up, all 3 bolts on the 10a 100’ traverse left were in awful shape last time I saw them. Bent, hanging out, star drive, and two other 1/4”. Most hangers were original homemade. Fortunately that wasn’t the crux pitch. But the anchor bolt at the end of the crux pitch is a single button head backed up with small gear.
In fact, the way it generally is bolted on that route (not at all) the shape of those bolts should be the least of your worries going up there.
There were some absolutely stellar pitches up there. Definitely mostly trad with bolts sprinkled along.
Don’t mind the 90 meter pitch at the end with not even enough placements throughout to build an anchor. Many pitches of 5.10 that are really fun and protect reasonably all along and one 5.11a pitch right in the middle with good crux bolts. A full 20 pitches.