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Anti-Cross Loading Autolocking Carabiner?

Original Post
Zach Baer · · Bellingham · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 5

I'm looking for a carabiner that feels a little niche, and am tired of perusing manufacturer's websites. Anybody know of a carabiner that fits my needs? Everything I've seen either do not deal well with jerking forces (using springs that will wear out), or require a tool to remove. I'd like something that I can twist all which ways for days and still not crossload, without needing a tool to remove them from my harness.

Ricky Harline · · Angel's Camp, CA · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 147

I'm not sure I'm understanding the problem you're trying to solve. Why do typical belay biners like the Grivel Clepsydra S (kinda sorta auto locking?) or Metolius Gatekeeper (comes in screwgate and auto lock) fall short of your requirements? 

J L · · Craggin' · Joined Jul 2023 · Points: 4

I asked for the same, here. Was told to buy the DMM Ceros. Was not disappointed.

Jay Goodwin · · OR-NV-CA · Joined May 2016 · Points: 13

I like the Metolius Gatekeeper

Summer P · · SF Bay Area and Groveland. · Joined Feb 2024 · Points: 0
J L wrote:

I asked for the same, here. Was told to buy the DMM Ceros. Was not disappointed.

Ceros! 

Garrett Genereux · · Redmond · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 35

I’ll sell you my old, but still well working, BD Gridlock Magnetron for the right price   

Daniel Joder · · Barcelona, ES · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0

I’m not sure I understand for what specific use you plan to use the carabiner. That could make a big difference on our recommendations. 

If it is for, say, belaying with a Grigri I have personally been very happy with the Petzl Freino. It took me a few sessions to get used to opening it and attaching it efficiently to my harness but now I have my habit pattern down. Advantages as I see them:

—Can’t cross load it.

—Has no springs or little wire gates (on the main part of the biner, anyway).

—The spur helps to add friction when belaying someone heavier or when rappelling a single line.

—The spur acts as a redirect point when belaying a second from above.

Disadvantages: Its expensive.

Warning: DO NOT get the Freino Z unless you need it for a specific and more specialized descent device that cavers and canyoneers would be familiar with. The Z version looks very similar to the regular Freino but is sort of a mirror image that won’t work with the Grigri. (Ask me how I learned this. Expensive mistake.)

I tried the DMM Ceros (which others seem to like), but I didn’t like the little wire gate and it quickly got sticky. That biner now sits at the bottom of my gear bin. But YMMV.

If your specific use has nothing to do with the Grigri, ignore my post. 

jexivi jexivi · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2024 · Points: 0

DMM Ceros

Dave Baker · · Wiltshire, UK · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 303

If you want something literally without "moving parts" then they're a pain to rack/unrack from a gear loop because the swinging bar doesn't close unless the gate is locked, but look at the DMM Belay Master, Mammut SmartHMS and such.  I know for a fact that DMM sells spare plastic gates for the Belay Master and suspect everyone else does the same.

Otherwise, the Ceros really is great.  On the "little clip inside" side of the house you've got three types.  Bar is integrated with the gate itself (see BD GridLock).  Then you've got wire gates that flip down (e.g. the Ceros).  And, you've got gates that flip UP (e.g. the Edelrid HMS FG Snap Hook).

It all depends on your use.  From what you said, and just taking a guess.  Look at the GridLock.  If you don't like that and can deal with the plastic flap, DMM Belay Master.  Then, DMM Ceros.

(Yes, I have too many carabiners)

Loic Prst · · Chamonix · Joined Mar 2025 · Points: 0

I like the Beal Orient Express bi matic, it looks very similar to the DMM Ceros, and it is triple rated B H T. The little wire gate is still very strong on mine after 1.5 year (climbing and mountaineering in the snow). I'm expecting about another year of use before having to retire it due to the rope grooving the top part (reverso belay), I'll probably get another one unless I find sth better.

I think the petzl attache should be available in twist-lock with the new plastic cross bar but it is probably weaker than the wire gate of the ceros or orient express.

Alec O · · Norwich, VT · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 31
Summer P wrote:

Ceros! 

Agreed this carabiner is a masterpiece.

Cosmic Hotdog · · Southern California · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 315

Another vote for the DMM Ceros. I prefer it over the metolius gatekeeper and Edelrid bulletproof

Ricky Harline · · Angel's Camp, CA · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 147
Cosmic Hotdog wrote:

Another vote for the DMM Ceros. I prefer it over the metloius gatekeeper and Edelrid bulletproof

What's it do better than the Gatekeeper?

Cosmic Hotdog · · Southern California · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 315
Ricky Harline wrote:

What's it do better than the Gatekeeper?

Dude this is so dumb I know, but I just like how the Ceros looks and feels higher quality. With that said, I have both and have used both for TRS and regular belaying tons of times. Both function just fine

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

I'm with Ricky in not really understanding your issue. 

If you want peak robustness just get a malion, they're ridiculously strong and talks of cross loading are basically pointless because no matter how you load it you will realistically NEVER see forces high enough to deformed it let alone break it.

J L · · Craggin' · Joined Jul 2023 · Points: 4
Ricky Harline wrote:

What's it do better than the Gatekeeper?

It's surprisingly satisfying to give the biner a tug and have the keeper bar click into place on your gear loop or belay loop. Looks like the gatekeeper does the same.

Bel Aoros · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2023 · Points: 0

Grivel Clepsydra S

Graham Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0

The new BD gridlock (possibly not available yet) is pretty slick - yes it has springs that will eventually wear out but they may have a screw gate option - I’ve used the auto locking version. Pretty much impossible to mis-align. 

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

This talk of springs wearing out is nonsense, I've seen the threads on screw lock biners wear out long before the gate stops working. Wire gates require more frequent maintenance but that's just a few drops of your lubricant of choice. 

j mo · · n az · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 1,190


Wren Powers · · Carbondale · Joined Jul 2024 · Points: 0

Petzl omni semicircle carabiner 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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