Al's Nevada adventures and stupid questions

Hey all, so i got sweaty hands some call it clammy. How is friction with sandstone do i have an advantage on sandstone with a little moisture? or is it gonna F me like quartz conglomerate. 

thank you! that is sound advice and i sorta been working on the no chalk warmups, i will keep doing that and i will try the wash and chalk while wetish technique.

Im so excited to get some trad gear into sandstone. strong hands good gear, great day. 

rock climbing wrote:Also climb all your warm up climbs without any chalk at all. 

This is very bad advice because your skin will still be wet and will shred much easier. I prefer to start chalking 5-10 minutes before the warmup to dry out the skin. 

Where's Walden wrote:

This is very bad advice because your skin will still be wet and will shred much easier. I prefer to start chalking 5-10 minutes before the warmup to dry out the skin. 

its still winter in NY so i have notably been using a lot less chalk, as my fingers feel like dead wood while climbing and moisture isnt a problem and friction feels high. I run into trouble when im oozing sweat on a hot summer day and my hands start to work overtime in sweat production. easy finger locks become sketch as heck and sloping open pam holds become extra sloppy feeling.

so this winter i have been using a lot less chalk. i never really tried your advice of pre chalking 5 to 10 before a climb. i definitely will try that, the warmup with no chalk came sort of natural to me because of the cold months in NY.

On the topic of soft hands. i am forced to wear nitrile gloves that do not breath for about 12 hours a day at work. this absolutely sucks and every time i put my gloves on, i think to myself how wonderful a dirtbag lifestyle would be for my hands. 

Edit: ripped my thumb open the other day squeezing a quartz crystal for dear life on Junior (gunks 5.9 slab), lmao. didnt fall!!!! but a tiny foot slip put that fucking quartz straight into my thumb and ripped open a flappy piece of skin. weeee go me.

PS. i can cook and clean and attentive belayer if anyone want to house me in their basement near gardiner NY. so i can quit my job

Fresh stupid question for you all.

If approaching rainbow mountain via the "middle oak creek trailhead" parking lot, off 159. do i need a scenic loop pass? does this pass grant access to climb? or can i park off 159 in the designated parking spot and just walk to my destination and climb without paying. Or are the scenic loop pass's granting access to climb? little cornfuzzled

I do not mind paying but only if i have to   

You do not need to go through the loop to access the Middle Oak Creek trailhead.  It is right off the highway, so just park and walk in.  No pass or reservations needed and you can get in as early as you want and same for when you get down.

You do not need a pass or rsvp to park at Middle Oak Creek TH. I'd suggest leaving nothing in your car and your glove box open and empty. Parking inside the loop gives a small extra layer of protection against smash & grabs.

Gee Monet wrote:

You do not need a pass or rsvp to park at Middle Oak Creek TH. I'd suggest leaving nothing in your car and your glove box open and empty. Parking inside the loop gives a small extra layer of protection against smash & grabs.

cheese and rice, i heard about these smash and grabs, didnt think about leaving the glove box open. thats a great suggestion. super stoked i dont have to pay.

4am approach to rainbow mnt > the extra layer of protection for my rental car. ill triple check i have the good rental insurance 

Survived!! I'll be back Nevada! Prepared with experience 

Alexander G wrote:

On the topic of soft hands. i am forced to wear nitrile gloves that do not breath for about 12 hours a day at work. this absolutely sucks and every time i put my gloves on, i think to myself how wonderful a dirtbag lifestyle would be for my hands.

If dexterity and IP are not an issue you could try a very thin liner to help absorb sweat.