Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Climbing the Tetons in April
|
Looking to climb the Tetons in April next month (~20th). I’d need a guide as it’d just be me & I also would consider myself novice. Any recommendations? Exum & The Mountain Guides seem to only start guiding in the summer. Waiting on their responses but I’m eager thus impatient. Any intel is appreciated!
|
|
Take your skis. |
|
Yup, that’s prime spring skimo season. It’s possible the sunny sport crags down by Hoback could be in but don’t count on it. Late May/early June is usually when most folks start looking at rock climbs. |
Virginia S wrote: High hopes, low expectations…..sounds like there’s no ice to explore? |
Virginia S wrote: Prospector's Falls in Death Canyon might be in, but I've never climbed it that late. That's probably about it. Prime ski season! |
Virginia S wrote: April is an in-between season for ice in the Tetons. The sun is high and the snow is still deep, thus the winter water ice routes that receive sun are most likely fallen down, and a few of the hidden ice routes *might still be in. The higher alpine ice routes that are not burred in snow are freeze/thaw conditions dependent and very hard for a non local to get them unless you are just pure lucky (I never have been :( ) Might be some ice on the Middle that faces the saddle, might find some ice on the Enclosure, N. Face of the grand, ect. but it probably still be too cold in the shaded zones for ice to form up. Then you have routes like the Run don't Walk and the BIC, which get climbed in May and June when the shedding cycle is done, and the snow is melting and freezing in the shade again. So, if you want ice in April, maybe look at the Otterbody Chimney, the route that forms to the left of the Teepee Pillar (cant remember its name), stuff that faces the sun (but is still shielded from it for most of the day) and has a good snow accumulating zone above them to feed. Good luck!! and please report back what you find. |
|
JJ no 0 fence. But just in case the guide companies have a very inexperienced scheduler or more likely; Double riled up a late season ice kicker: I would not recommend the Schmitz Otterbody ice climb to my worse enemy. Now more than ever, not recommended. The recent collapse of the 2nd Tower in combination with slab hazard and channeled loose snow hazard as well as falling rime put fatal avalanches down this route daily. The rope and caribiner fixed anchors could have easily been chopped away. It is unlikely that this has been climbed in years or even ski rappelled much lately. The 2, 4,000 ft avalanches from the summit snow to the meadows, this season, probably added to start zone weakness. But if one wanted to go, go quickly, after observation, maybe consider an evening session or coldest, cloudiest. The “Breshears” pillar b/t Glencoe and Teepee is a much safer option. This is what JJ meant; but typed “otterbody” Sign up for a normal route. An expert athlete w acclimatization could easily ice climb the easiest, busiest route on the Grand, the Stetner-Chevy-Ford-ski normal, in 20 hours or from a guided camp. with limited hazard to include human triggered loose, human/equipment and falling rime. |
|
No O fence taken. I have always been a tourist in the range and appreciate the locals beta! I just learned something valuable with your reply and appreciate it. |
|
I flew past the Otterbody route just a few days before the first descent (I think Hans Johnstone and partner(?)), thinking "that might go". It was a big snow year. Seeing it up pretty close, I'd think you'd have to be on your A game! (Ah, the 90's ski descents--Bubblefun Couloir on Buck (as well as the one to the right), Hidden Couloir on Thor, Hossack-McGowan, NE Snowfields on Owen, etc. etc.). Way above my pay grade though.) Off topic--does anyone know about the Jack Tackle mixed route on South Chimney of Owen? |
|
Thanks--you mean Coombs-Newcomb? Fryxell ramp is a cool place. |
