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Leavenworth beta!

Original Post
Caden White · · Washington · Joined Jan 2024 · Points: 0

TLDR: Looking for more vertical, less slabby routes in Leavenworth, preferrably bolted.

Hey all, my dad is flying into WA soon, and we are planning on going to Leavenworth to climb for a few days. He used to be a proficient climber but has been out of it for a few years. I am looking for routes in Leavenworth that are more vertical and less slabby, as I want to take some practice falls on each other to get him warmed back up before we go sending harder stuff. Any reccomendations? Prefer bolted stuff as Im not really confident leading anything past 5.8 on trad, and like I said, Im hoping to get some practice whips in on him. Also I really dislike slab, lol. Thanks in advance

Andrew Deliduka · · Leavenworth, WA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 3,029

Depends on when you are planning on climbing, much of the canyon has yet to melt out or is seeping. 

That being said, there is plenty of dry rock to be had. I would recommend Hobo gulch as its close to the car and many of the routes (Song of the Vulgar Goatmen, Mudslinger etc.) are close to vertical/not slabby. 

IJMayer · · Guemes Island, WA · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 350

Drip wall?

Jacob Leonard · · Washington · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 495

If you like 5.12 sport routes than you can't beat The Helm up by Bridge Creek Area.

Tobias Duffy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2023 · Points: 0

I second Hobo Gulch.  It’s mostly south facing, has a short walk and steep for Lworth moderate climbs    I’ll probably be climbing there this week. 

Ben S · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2023 · Points: 16

New routes keep going up at the gulch… 3-5.fun & interesting freshies right of the main wall. Brushes are not needed on most of the hobo routes but some may require some tidying up to be great again. Watch out for vagrants and poison ivy.

Castle rock has many steep routes some with bolts. The bridge creek crags include the helm and many other worthy distractions. All should be dry enough…
Enjoy!!

Hangdog Hank · · Leavenworth, WA · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 2,029

Leavenworth is not an ideal spot if you're looking for a high density of moderate nonslab bolted routes. Rattlesnake rock would be my recommendation, although it honestly sounds like you should just go to vantage. 

Ben S · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2023 · Points: 16

fwiw: Tumwater is less slabby than the Icicle

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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